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Ranking the best of Taste of Iowa City 2023
Get a taste of what to try in downtown Iowa City and the Northside
Sep. 4, 2023 11:00 am
IOWA CITY — So many restaurants, so little time.
With dozens of restaurants generously drizzled around the blocks of downtown and Northside, picking a place to eat or drink around Iowa City can be a paralyzing paradox of choice.
Join me as I navigate the best offerings from more than 50 vendors at Taste of Iowa City’s 15th year. Here are my top picks from the Aug. 29 event:
Best things I tasted:
- Crispy Pork Tenderloin from Wilder
- Watermelon Sushi from Vue Rooftop
- Fainting Cow Slider from The Iowa Chop House
- Mango Black Shaken Fruit Tea from Teamo Tea
- Matcha Lemonade from TruCoffee
- Blue Ridge PB+J Pop Tarts from The Dandy Lion
- Southern Fried Egg Roll from The Dandy Lion
- Fried Dumpling from Formosa
- Hibiscus Lemonade from Coffee Emporium
- Cinnamon Twist from Coffee Emporium
1. Crispy Pork Tenderloin from Wilder
The is a bold choice to showcase in Iowa, where a sea of pork tenderloin options oink at every corner of the state. But in this case, it paid off for The Graduate hotel’s relatively new restaurant.
The goodness of this sandwich lies not necessarily in the tenderloin itself, but in the quality of the fixings that are often neglected at other restaurants, which usually settle for comically small buns and a smattering of rudimentary chopped vegetables on the side.
An ultra crispy panko edge revs your engine with a good, fried start. A demure bun and tingly aioli comes in to tenderize the thin pork that softens more and more toward the center of the sandwich, where it has retained its moisture.
As you get to know the pork, a balancing crunch of red cabbage, slaw and onion provide a saucy finish that has not become a cliche for tenderloins. Overall, a well-needed update to an Iowa classic.
2. Watermelon Sushi from Vue Rooftop
I was so excited to finally find a novel, new creation at Vue Rooftop — just something original that didn’t build on an old menu item.
On its own, the watermelon isn’t much. What brings this summer treat to life is an explosion of Fourth of July fireworks sparked by the kimchi (called a “krautchi” on their menu), and promptly met with an obligatory “ooh” and “aah” from the crowd of taste buds on my tongue as it flashes to life with some wakame (an edible seaweed), pickled shiitake mushrooms and Korean chili glaze.
Even after the star fruit of summer has faded, there’s still so much heat to be gracefully enjoyed at the end of August.
3. Fainting Cow Slider from The Iowa Chop House
A buttered bun and greasy aura shines from the top, glistening in the sun.
This is everything you need a burger to be in a small package — warm, cheesy, meaty and inviting. It is neither intimidating nor spicy as the title implies above its listed ingredients: Sriracha aioli, pepper jack cheese and jalapenos.
The bun, which tasted like a brioche, was as soft and tender as the meat.
The meat is well balanced, savory and neither too salty nor too bland. A jalapeno comes in on the last couple bites to make sure I’m being well taken care of.
4. Mango Black Shaken Fruit Tea from Teamo Tea
Notes of mango and honey shoot to the top of this black tea, lightened by the feeling of summer. For those of us who cling to the end of summer rather than embracing the beginning of fall in September, this is a great way to hang on to the last few days of the season.
A silky touch caresses the tongue with cool relief as a naturally saccharine profile brightens the palate.
No need for milk or sugar in this tea. The fruit seems to do it all.
5. Matcha Lemonade from TruCoffee
Stirred together, lemonade and matcha become one in a drink that can only be described as fresh and refreshing.
First, it’s so rare to find a lemonade perfectly balanced between sweet and tart. But even though TruCoffee has managed to achieve the pinnacle of lemonade, I can hardly pay attention because of the new melody I’m tasting for the first time with this matcha accompaniment.
In addition to providing a neutralizing, clean accent to the drink, the matcha’s tannin-like grip on the tongue adds additional texture, balancing out the acidity from lemons.
6. Blue Ridge PB+J Pop Tarts from The Dandy Lion
This classic from The Dandy Lion returns to my top 10 list again, this time in two new varieties.
Unfortunately, the raspberry lemon curd strudel sold out early in the evening.
A surprise comes in immediately as I discover the peanut butter is in the drizzle on top, not inside like the classic peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
The soft, tender pastry yields to a muscadine jam inside, which is mild and doesn’t quite match the vigor of the peanut butter.
Nice, crunchy edges finish the treat.
7. Southern Fried Egg Roll from The Dandy Lion
This vegan delight shows how much progress is being made in meat substitutes.
Thanks to vouching from its soul sisters — collard greens and sweet potatoes — I could hardly tell the Impossible Chicken was plant-based. It passes by association.
The fried edge of the Impossible Chicken blends well with the slightly bitter edge of the collard greens. The complementary Peach Hottie sauce was too much peach and not enough hottie for my taste, but helped bond the ingredients of this eggroll as a cohesive unit.
8. Fried Dumpling from Formosa
This is on the list for its simplicity as a well-done classic with no new frills. Notably, Formosa also has made my list in the past for their sushi.
It’s crispy, but not overdone. A doughy pillow follows the crunch of each bite.
Each pocket holds a good ratio of pork to cabbage inside, absorbing a soy-citrus dipping sauce with ease.
9. Hibiscus Lemonade from Coffee Emporium
The synergy of hibiscus lightly fruits a pale lemonade. The lemonade is understated compared to other options out there, but in that way it feels more like a form of hydration than an indulgence.
Notes of blackberry and citrus precede an aftertaste similar to a green tea.
Overall, another great option on the hybrid lemonade scene.
10. Cinnamon Twist from Coffee Emporium
Since Coffee Emporium is continuing to grow in the local coffee scene with a recent string of acquisitions and openings across Johnson County, I thought it would be good to sample one of their offerings at the Northside’s former High Ground Cafe.
The crispy edge of this cinnamon twist leads to a soft center of delicately spiced bread twist. Think of this more as bread with cinnamon than a cinnamon roll.
I give it credit for not overdoing the cinnamon and having a crispy edge without being over baked. On the more constructive side, the icing was a bit stiff, and could use some improvement in texture and flavor.
Comments: (319) 398-8340; elijah.decious@thegazette.com
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