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Sweet & Spicy: Dijon delight
Dijon mustard can elevate plain chicken thighs and vinaigrette
The other day, I bought a new jar of Dijon mustard. Before storing it in the refrigerator, I took a small spoonful for a taste. Its tart, warm flavor was pleasantly bracing.
That spoonful of mustard brought to mind homey brasseries and cafes in Paris where small pots of Dijon mustard can be found on tables. It’s a condiment a diner might add to a dish of duck confit, roasted chicken or a nice piece of steak. More than a few times, though, I saw old men spread a bit of mustard on slices of baguette as they sipped beer.
I’m not necessarily suggesting that you take a spoonful of Dijon and call me in the morning, but I do think mustard’s in-your-face flavor is just right for winter’s full-on chill. It wakes you up. I like it on sandwiches, in deviled eggs, in potato salad and baked beans. It bears a more complex flavor — and less vibrant color — than the yellow mustard we all grew up with.
Truth be told, I live in a house divided. My dearest prefers the yellow mustard. He was somewhat concerned as I prepared this month’s dish, seeing a generous quantity of Dijon mustard being used to coat chicken thighs before searing them in high heat.
“Trust me,” I said. A bit of heat tames the mustard bite, leaving behind an additional layer of flavor. An example of this is poulet a la moutarde, braised chicken in a mustard sauce, this month’s recipe. Chicken thighs are coated with smooth Dijon mustard, then browned in a skillet. The chicken braises slowly in white wine and chicken stock. After that, additional mustard is added to flavor and thicken the sauce. It finishes with the softening touch of a few tablespoons of creme fraiche or plain heavy cream. Served over mashed potatoes, noodles or plain rice, it is a delightfully cozy winter dish.
One final note about replacing empty jars of Dijon mustard: When I’ve nearly scraped all that’s left, I give the remaining bits of mustard one more life by mixing a salad dressing right in the jar. French vinaigrette recipes call for a touch of mustard. I drizzle in olive oil, white or red wine vinegar, garlic powder and salt. After a good stir, it’s ready to use. Stored in the refrigerator, this dressing will keep for several weeks. The key is remembering to bring the dressing to room temperature before use because olive oil solidifies in the refrigerator.
Recipe
Chicken Thighs with Creamy Mustard Sauce
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup smooth Dijon mustard, plus 2 tablespoons
1 tablespoons olive oil
2 shallots, thinly sliced
1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced
1 cup white wine
1 cup chicken stock
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of thyme or tarragon
1 tablespoon coarse grained mustard
2 heaping tablespoons creme fraiche or heavy cream
1/4 cup chopped parsley
Begin by sprinkling the chicken thighs with salt and pepper, then rub the 1/3 cup mustard all over, even under the skin. In a wide heavy skillet over medium heat, cook the chicken thighs, skin side down, until they are a nice golden brown. Turn and cook the bottoms until they begin to brown, then remove to a plate.
Remove some of the chicken fat that has collected, leaving approximately 3 tablespoons of fat. Add shallots and onions. Saute until they are soft and browned. Add the wine and scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Add the bay leaves, thyme or tarragon, chicken stock and grainy mustard. Return chicken thighs back into the pan and place skin side up. Continue cooking over medium low heat for about 30 to 40 minutes until the stock has reduced by half.
Add the mustard and creme fraiche to the pan and stir gently until it’s fully incorporated. The sauce should look thicker after this. Remove from heat and sprinkle with parsley. Serve over mashed potatoes, thick egg noodles or steamed rice.
Vinaigrette Salad Dressing
When I’ve nearly scraped all that’s left from a jar of Dijon mustard, I give the remaining bits of one more life by mixing a salad dressing right in the jar. I drizzle in olive oil, white or red wine vinegar, garlic powder and salt. Whisk well. Stored in the refrigerator, this dressing will keep for several weeks. The key is remembering to bring the dressing to room temperature before using because olive oil does solidify in the refrigerator. Give it a good shake and it’s ready to go.
Chicken Thighs with Creamy Mustard Sauce. (Lisa Williams)
Chicken Thighs with Creamy Mustard Sauce. (Lisa Williams)
Chicken Thighs with Creamy Mustard Sauce. (Lisa Williams)
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