Whiterock Conservancy’s natural history, outdoor recreation offers respite from the city

On a glorious early autumn day, we sat in the outdoor dining area of a Cedar Rapids restaurant. The food was delicious, but the atmosphere was sullied by the bombarding roar of traffic, factories, trains and loud music. We needed to find quiet.

A few days later as we sat outdoors sipping early morning coffee, we were enveloped by a rare and delicious presence hard to find in modern day America: Quiet. Awesome quiet.

The night before we savored another once common ambiance hard to find in modern America: Darkness. Awesome darkness unpunctuated by street and other lights that mute the stars. While relaxing in reclining chairs we marveled at a spectacular show as zillions of stars peeked at us from their distant places. Only an occasional soft Great Horned owl call floated through the still evening, as we sat transfixed by the sky’s beauty and the quiet surrounding us.

Iowa’s probably the most settled of all states. Although its population is relatively low, gentle topography enabled farming on most of the state’s acres. Roads are everywhere spewing vehicle noise, while glaring lights from a thousand towns, farms and cities mask the majesty of the heavens. It’s hard to find both dark skies and quiet in the Hawkeye State, but we succeeded.

We were enjoying a few days at the Whiterock Conservancy just south of Coon Rapids and about 175 miles west of Cedar Rapids. The 5,500-acre private nonprofit organization offers rich human and natural history amid a blend of agriculture and outdoor recreation. Although we mostly savored the quiet and darkness, by day we hiked trails and fished in several ponds. We visited with other visitors there to enjoy horseback riding, mountain biking, trail running, canoeing and camping.

Whiterock is unique in that visitors have a variety of options to overnight. We chose one of the property’s comfortable farmhouses, the Woodland Carriage House. It’s a comfortable base to cook meals, sleep and retreat indoors as the night cooled.

The Whiterock Conservancy started with Roswell Garst, an Iowa farmer famous for developing hybrid corn in 1930. The then new type of corn vastly outproduced open pollinated varieties. It sprouted an agricultural revolution. For years, Garst promoted hybrids, attracting interest far beyond the United States. During visits to the Soviet Union, he’d met and befriended Nikita Khrushchev. Wanting to learn more about American agriculture, the Soviet leader visited Garst at his farm on Sept. 23, 1959, during a historic and well-reported visit.

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Years later, Mary Garst and her daughters Liz, Rachel, Kate, Jen and Sarah worked with the Iowa Natural Heritage Foundation to arrange the transition of their 5,500-acre farm to what became a unique model of land use and outdoor recreation. Today it’s known as the Whiterock Conservancy, named for an outcropping of light-colored rock poised above the Middle Raccoon River by the River Campground. Visitors enjoy a legacy of generosity, forward thinking, cooperation and hard work.

“Whiterock is unique in Iowa because it is a large area over 5,000 acres owned by a nonprofit land trust that demonstrates balance on the land between conservation, agriculture and outdoor recreation,” said Lisa Hein, senior director for conservation programs at the Iowa Natural Heritage Foundation. She serves on the conservancy’s board of directors.

Much of Iowa’s outdoor recreation takes place in state, county and city parks. They’re supported, mostly, by tax money. Although they often charge fees for camping and lodge rentals, hiking and day use are free. As a nonprofit organization, Whiterock’s operations philosophy and funding is different. Progressive, regenerative agriculture provides income. So do fees charged for lodging and outdoor recreation. Dedicated donors add financial support.

“I don’t know of any other place like this in Iowa,” said Hein.

There are many reasons to visit.

Lodging

In addition to campgrounds, Whiterock Conservancy rents eight cabins or houses scattered about the property. Staying there is a true rural experience.

A few years back on our first visit, we overnighted in the Historic Garst Farmhouse. The sprawling farmhouse is a treat, especially for groups. Mid-20th century décor, en-suite rooms with unusual tiling and hooks, and butterfly and tea cup collections all grab your attention. Artifacts and books entice lodgers to delve into history and soak up the ambiance of an elegant yet working farm home.

More recently we stayed at the Woodland Carriage House. The Log Cabin is a large home that accommodates many people, while Hollyhock Cottage and the North Star Yurt are more appropriate for a couple or small group. There’s even the Rustic River cabin that requires a walk to access.

Last April we pitched our tent at the River Campground, which was an ideal base for daily hiking. The conservancy also includes the Oak Ridge RV campground and the amazingly unique Star Field Campground. Located on a high ridge, it may be the only Iowa campground dedicated to star viewing. Only tent camping is allowed, generators are banned and visitors can rent comfortable hammocks to lay horizontally while viewing the sky.

Because Iowa is so settled and most of its land is planted to crops, backpacking opportunities are sparse. Whiterock offers an exception with walk-in campgrounds. Getting to them offers a physical challenge of carrying gear along trails. Solitude and quiet are the rewards.

Astronomy

Whiterock is located in an area of Iowa with a relatively low human population and no nearby cities. Coon Rapids is close but small enough to not create major light pollution.

The conservancy has taken positive steps to fashion its own lighting to keep the property as dark as possible. Several special astronomy events are held annually but the stars put on a glorious show on every clear night.

Trails

Hikers and trail runners enjoy miles of up and down trails that wind through woods and fields.

While hiking one that parallels the Raccoon River, we were delighted to pass by enormous old, wide spreading oaks. Here and there trails pass fields of cattle munching grasses. Along one trail we spotted wood ducks, flickers, kingfishers and fall warblers flitting around thick underbrush.

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Equestrians enjoy six miles of scenic trails with horse trailer parking at some trailheads. Many horseback riders overnight at River Campground. Mountain bicyclers can pedal 16 miles of dedicated trails and another 12 miles shared with other users.

The conservancy offers occasional Slow Sunday Drives for UTV enthusiasts by reservation. It’s a great way to easily traverse the expansive property.

Trail users are asked to make a daily donation to help fund maintenance and operations. The fee for hiking and bicycling is $5 and for horses $10 a day. Annual passes are available. The conservancy requires advanced reservations for some activities. Check their website for details.

Fishing

Years ago, the Garst Family created 12 ponds and welcomed local residents to fish for free. It’s a tradition that continues at Whiterock.

One afternoon, we dropped two $5 bills in the box to support trail maintenance and sauntered along a trail that eventually accessed four ponds. Rich had his rod in hand and a lure box in a day pack. Vehicle access is the norm at most Iowa fishing holes, but Whiterock has walk-in fishing that reminded us of similar experiences in western national forests. The lack of easy access added to our afternoon’s fun, while some Whiterock ponds are next to a road and don’t require much walking.

On his second cast, a scrappy ten-inch largemouth bass snatched his lure. Minutes after releasing the youngster a heavier fish took the bass plug, churned its way south and snapped the line. That lunker is likely still in the pond.

An Iowa license and state fishing laws apply. Ponds are clearly located on Whiterock’s map.

Kayaking and canoeing

An eight-mile stretch of the Middle Raccoon River starts at a Coon Rapids Riverside Park and ends at the River Campground. It’s a scenic, approximately three-hour leisurely float. Whiterock rents paddle craft and can arrange shuttling.

“Whiterock is a unique land use model that cohesively connects ecological restoration with regenerative agriculture that visitors can experience through many activities. As Whiterock builds into a sustainable future our donors, volunteers, staff and partners are vital to success,” said Executive Director Kate Coleman.

We’ll return again to absorb the conservancy’s quiet darkness and opportunities to enjoy nature.