116 3rd St SE
Cedar Rapids, Iowa 52401
Sunny historic gem
St. Augustine, Florida — the oldest city in America — welcomes visitors
In 1513, Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon came to the St. Augustine area of Florida searching for the fountain of youth. When my husband and I recently visited St. Augustine we didn’t get any younger, but we did fall in love with one of America’s most charming cities. With its European ambience and laid-back Florida vibe, St. Augustine is a quirky gem steeped in history.
Located in northeastern Florida an hour south of Jacksonville, St. Augustine is the oldest continuously occupied city of European origin in the United States. In 1565 (more than five decades before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock) a group of Spaniards led by Pedro Menendez founded a colony here. Except for a 20 period under British rule, St. Augustine was one of Spain’s most valuable colonial outposts for centuries. It was only in 1821 that Spanish control ended when Florida became a U.S. territory.
Today St. Augustine retains its Spanish ambience, especially in the balconied houses, shaded patios and narrow streets of its historic quarter. From restaurants that serve paella, empanadas and tapas to art galleries and shops that sell Spanish-influenced art such as ceramics and wrought ironwork, this city of 15,000 remains true to its roots.
If you go
Where: St. Augustine, Florida is located 50 miles south of Jacksonville.
Where to eat
The Floridian, 72 Spanish St., St. Augustine, Fla.; (904) 829-0655; thefloridianstaug.com. Has for locally sourced dishes.
Prohibition Kitchen, 119 St. George St., St. Augustine, Fla., (904) 209-5704; pkstaug.com. Has upscale pub fare
Columbia Restaurant, 98 St. George St., St. Augustine, Fla.; (904) 824-3341; columbiarestaurant.com. Has Spanish and Cuban dishes.
Where to Stay
For overnight accommodations in historic buildings, book a room at one of the following:
St. George Inn, 4 St. George St., St. Augustine, Fla.; (888) 827-5740; www.stgeorge-inn.com. Historic
The Old City House Inn, 115 Cordova St., St. Augustine, Fla.; (904) 826-0113; oldcityhouseinn.com/
The Villa 1565, 137 San Marco Ave., St. Augustine, Fla.; (904) 824-6181; www.villa1565.com/
For more information: (904) 829-1711 or see floridashistoriccoast.com.
While visitors can tour St. Augustine by narrated trolleys, horse-drawn carriages and boat cruises, my husband and I chose to explore this eminently walkable city on foot. We began at the Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, a fortress that overlooks the sparkling waters of Matanzas Bay. The massive structure — the oldest masonry fort in the U.S. — was completed by the Spaniards in 1695. It is constructed of coquina, a soft limestone made of broken shells and coral that proved surprisingly resilient to bombardment by foreign armies through the centuries.
From the fort we headed to the Plaza de la Constitucion, which has been the bustling heart of the city ever since it was laid out in 1573. Flanked by several buildings that date back to the Spanish Colonial period, it’s a popular place for local vendors to sell their wares and visitors to take a break from the Florida heat in the shade of tall trees.
Next we entered the warren of cobblestone streets that make up the city’s historic quarter. Lined with a mix of original and replica buildings, many in Spanish Renaissance Revival style, this pedestrian-friendly district is a mix of shops, galleries, cafes and historic sites. One of the most significant is the Gonzalez-Alvarez House, which was built in the early 1700s and is the oldest Spanish Colonial dwelling in the city.
After a tasty lunch at the St. Augustine Seafood Co., we continued our tour of the district. Gourmet ice pops from The Hyppo kept us cool as we people-watched and browsed stores selling local crafts and souvenirs.
A stop at the living history attraction known as the Colonial Quarter gave us more insights into the city’s past. Guides in period dress gave us a whirlwind tour through the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries, involving us in musket drills, blacksmithing demonstrations and other experiential vignettes from the past.
Other landmarks showcased more recent St. Augustine history, including the role of wealthy industrialist Henry Flagler in shaping the city. After a visit to the town in 1882, he decided to make it a winter retreat for the nation’s elite. As a co-founder of Standard Oil with John D. Rockefeller, he had plenty of money to transform St. Augustine.
One of Flagler’s most significant initiatives was the construction of two extravagant hotels. The Hotel Ponce de Leon, which opened in 1888, now houses Flagler College. The building’s design includes architectural elements reminiscent of Spanish cathedrals and palaces. On a public tour we were impressed by its massive rotunda, elegant grand parlor, and dining room with 79 stained glass windows created by Louis Comfort Tiffany.
Another hotel built by Flagler, the Alcazar, now houses the Lightner Museum. Founded in 1948 by Chicago publisher Otto Lightner, the museum is a Gilded Age treasure house, with decorative arts ranging from paintings and sculpture to furniture and mechanical musical instruments.
St. Augustine is also known for its religious landmarks. The National Shrine of Our Lady of La Leche at Mission Nombre de Dios is one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in the nation. Located at the site of the first Catholic mass in the United States, it has a beautiful waterfront setting. On the city’s main square, the stately architecture of the Cathedral Basilica of St. Augustine reflects the city’s Spanish Colonial past. The Memorial Presbyterian Church, a blend of Venetian Renaissance and Spanish Revival styles, is the final resting place of Henry Flagler, while St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine honors Greek heritage in the region.
My husband and I ended our tour of St. Augustine at the Fountain of Youth Archaeological Park. Located at the site of the 1513 landing of Ponce de Leon, the park includes a working archaeological dig, information on the Timucuan people who lived in the area before European colonization, and a natural spring that recalls the quest for the fountain of youth. Even though the fountain doesn’t have magical properties, we decided that you can still find magic in St. Augustine.
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