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Lovely Ljubljana
Slovenia’s capital is one of Europe’s most charming cities
The only difficult thing about visiting Ljubljana is pronouncing and spelling its name (“Lyoo-BLYAH-nuh” comes close). In all other ways, the capital of the Central European nation of Slovenia is a delight. With exquisite architecture and a vibrant cultural life, Ljubljana is a walkable city that’s perfect for strolling, biking and admiring the views. And while Slovenian is a tongue-twister of a language, most of the city’s residents are fluent in English, making this an easy destination for American travelers.
On a recent trip, my husband and I learned that much of the elegant ambience of Ljubljana is due to architect Joze Plecnik, who was born here in 1872. Under his guidance, Ljubljana was transformed into one of Europe’s most charming capitals, a city in which architecture, green spaces and pedestrian-friendly thoroughfares combine into one harmonious whole.
“Joze Plecnik is one of the most admired architects of the 20th century,” said our guide Janez Kotnik on a walking tour of the center of the city, which is closed to motorized traffic. “And in Ljubljana he got the chance to create his fullest vision of what a city can be.”
As we walked, we marveled at the beauties of the city, which is bisected by the Ljubljanica River and filled with historic buildings, museums, outdoor cafes, and shops. All of this activity is overseen by the medieval Ljubljana Castle, which sits on a high hill above the city.
“Ever since the Romans established a settlement here in the first century, Ljubljana has been a cultural crossroads,” said Kotnik. “Over the centuries it developed into a mix of Mediterranean, Slavic and Germanic cultures. And a lot of our energy today comes from all the young people here. Out of a total population of nearly 300,000, about 50,000 are university students.”
If you go
Ljubljana’s Joze Pucnik Airport has regular flights from many major European cities.
The Slovenia city, which has a warm and sunny climate, is easily explored on foot or with a rented bike.
The city center has a wide range of accommodations, including the Zlata Ladjica Boutique Hotel (zlataladjica.com) located in an 18th-century building, and the Grand Hotel Union Eurostars (eurostarshotels.co.uk), an Art Nouveau landmark built in 1905.
For more information on Slovenia, visit slovenia.info. For information on Ljubljana, visit visitljubljana.com.
As we walked, Kotnik pointed out Renaissance, Italian Baroque, Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings, landmarks that are interspersed with equally impressive public squares. The most significant is Presernov Square, which is dominated by a statue of France Preseren, Slovenia’s greatest poet. In honor of his work celebrating Slovene culture, the anniversary of his death in 1849 is a national holiday.
Ljubljana is especially known for the picturesque bridges that span the Ljubljanica River. The most famous is the Triple Bridge, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. When it was built in 1842 it had just one span, but after architect Joze Plecnik added two additional side bridges and ornamental stone balustrades and lamps, it became an iconic symbol of the city.
One of the city’s most photographed spots is the Dragon’s Bridge, which has fierce dragons on each corner. The animals are connected to a legend that says that when the Greek hero Jason was returning home with the Golden Fleece, he fought a dragon in the marshes around what is now Ljubljana.
“Thanks to that story, dragons pop up everywhere in Ljubljana,” explained Kotnik. “Be on the lookout as you walk because you’ll see them as decorative elements in many places.”
For the rest of our visit we wandered on our own, beginning each day with a breakfast of fresh fruit and pastries from the outdoor Central Market. Much of our explorations focused on the cobblestone passageways and courtyards of the city’s Old Town, but each day also included plenty of time in the outdoor cafes that line the promenade along the Ljubljanica River.
A history exhibition at Ljubljana Castle gave us more background on Slovenia, which is about the size of Massachusetts. We learned that for much of its history Slovenia was controlled by the Hapsburgs of Austria, who ruled the Holy Roman Empire and its successor states. After World War II, Slovenia became part of the Communist nation of Yugoslavia. It was only after the dissolution of that country in 1991 that Slovenia became an independent nation.
While its years as an independent country are few, Slovenia takes great pride in its distinctive cultural traditions. Ljubljana is home to one of the oldest philharmonic orchestras in the world, for example, and hosts more than 10,000 cultural events each year, including 10 international festivals.
Slovenia’s cultural diversity is also evident in its food. While influenced by the neighboring countries of Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, Slovenian cooks have created their own unique cuisine, from the cheese dumplings called struklji to the sauerkraut-and-bean jota stew. The country is also increasingly known for its wines, particularly white varietals. And for dessert, we enjoyed kremna rezina, a light cream cake that’s a national delicacy.
But of all the many attractions of Ljubljana, we found that the most enjoyable was simply to walk through the city. With the sun sparkling on the river, its many street cafes filled with people, and its glorious architecture, Ljubljana felt like a fairy tale destination. We gave thanks to Joze Plecnik, whose artistic vision continues to shape his home city.
A visit to Lake Bled
From Ljubljana it’s easy to make a day trip by car, bus or train to Lake Bled in Slovenia, a resort region located 30 miles from the city. The lake is set amid the high peaks of the Julian Alps, a part of the Alps named after Julius Caesar.
Lake Bled is overlooked by Bled Castle, parts of which date back to 1011. After touring its interior and enjoying its spectacular views, visitors can return to the shore and hop on a boat that takes passengers to the tiny island that sits in the center of the lake. The vessels, known as pletna, are rowed by local men and are Lake Bled’s version of the gondoliers of Venice.
After reaching the island, you can walk up 99 steps to reach the historic Catholic chapel at the top. Those who ring its bell are said to have their wishes come true, which is one of the reasons why the island is so popular. Afterward, you’ll have about an hour to walk around the island before your boat returns.
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