116 3rd St SE
Cedar Rapids, Iowa 52401
In search of snow
The Nature Call: Author drove for miles to find a good cross country skiing trail
John Lawrence Hanson - correspondent
Mar. 4, 2024 9:47 am, Updated: Mar. 4, 2024 10:10 am
I put 226 miles on the truck chasing snow.
An EPA report noted our Iowa winters are markedly shorter since the 1970s, because of man-made global warming. It wasn’t lost on me that my miles were adding to the crisis for the very thing I so dearly love: winter.
My compensation was to drive under the speed limit mostly.
My itinerary was to hit the cross country ski trails in Decorah, Cresco and then Cedar Falls. We had just had our two-plus feet of snow, the cold was lingering and I felt if I didn't take this opportunity there might not be an opportunity next weekend.
Dad’s regular idiom from his farmboy days was, “Make hay when the sun shines.” As global warming intensifies that line might get a rebirth by the skiing crowd: make snow when the temp dips below freezing
I’m afraid my pastime will soon be relegated to parks with small loops that can host snow-making cannons.
There was snow aplenty in Decorah, along with sunshine, wind and cold, but not painful temps. I already was behind schedule because I started on the indirect route. I noticed my error in Elkader — such a luxury problem.
Van Peenen Park trails tried to hide just outside of town next to a quarry. The trails were groomed but there were also options for snowshoers and ambitious off-trail skiers. I was happy with the climb to the ridgetop because that meant I would get a zippy ride back down, and I was right.
Last weekend the FIS World Cup races were in the United States for the first time in 23 years. Minneapolis was the host and Team USA star Jessie Diggens guaranteed a sellout as she was the hometown draw. But the park was brown five days before the races, all except the racing loop, a white serpent of banked snow and artificial additions. The races would go on, but the spectacle would be diminished.
The truck coasted to the next Decorah spot; turn left before the river or you’ll miss it: Palisades Park. I let myself think I was back on the Birkie trails as the course here was wide and smooth. And it should have been as it was the road, blocked from traffic and groomed for the winter. A smooth trail is almost everything, it makes a duffer like me feel competitive.
Such thoughts are good for the soul.
The views atop the park were as great as advertised. The cruise back down to the truck was so nice I considered another lap, but I wanted to make all of my stops.
Within 24 hours of Diggins and Team USA landing in Minnesota, there was seven inches of new snow on the ground. The faithful were in their glory, the superstitious called for the odds in Las Vegas.
The Prairie Springs trails weren’t in Cresco per se, but the 3.5 paved biking trail connecting the park to the town could have made it feel that way for the locals, especially kids. I gathered the trails had been groomed but the days of gale-force winds had rearranged the snow so my track-loving skis fought for traction and control.
The knobby tracks of a fat tire mountain bike preceded me. Given the conditions, that would have been my preferred way to go, or by snowshoe if birdwatching was in the mix.
Cresco to Pfeiff Springs Park in Cedar Falls was darn near a due south run. The CFU smokestack heralded the turn. The parking lot with about 50 percent Subaraus let me know I was in the right spot.
The Hartman Reserve trail ran downstream, along the river. This too was a mostly straight shot, though the trail was fouled with the craters of walkers. I guessed the trail was an old rail line. I didn’t complain because I didn’t pay.
At the southern end I could have just reversed course or used the roadside overpass to cross to George Wyth State Park and then skied upstream. I crossed, however the trail was awful and being so close to oncoming semi trucks was the antithesis of the serenity that makes cross country skiing so appealing.
The star of the World Cup races was Diggins. However, the Swedes spoiled her bid for first place. Diggins, aged 32, hadn’t raced her home course in 19 years. Snow-making then wasn’t an option at the park.
Diggins was the star, but the hero was Madison-born and Anchorage-raised Gus Schumacher. Schumacher had a surprise victory in the men’s distance race. He became the third U.S. man to win a World Cup race and the first to do so in a distance race as well as the first to win on U.S.Tinysoil. At 23, he could have another decade of competitive skiing. How much of his future races will rely on man-made snow?
The switchback coasted me to a crossroads in the park. Stopped was a couple that had the look of not being sure of where to go. We exchanged that it was our first time here.
They had just come down river through the state park. I reassured them they could cross here. They confirmed I could cross to Pfeiff Springs upstream. And with that we parted with well wishes and an eye for something new.
Where the Hartman trail was arrow straight, the trail through George Wyth wended and winded through the woods, with just enough undulation to keep it interesting.
The sun was in the trees. I knew I was near the end as I saw the smokestack and heard the cacophony of geese that enjoyed the plant’s warm-water discharge.
My calf and ankle complained a bit as I rolled on the throttle to join the highway. Two trumpeter swans flew up from the river and passed across my view.TinyThey were glorious in the pink light of a winter sunset.
I headed south, they headed up and away. Next winter they will still be white, I wonder the same about Iowa.
Looking up, looking ahead, and keeping my pencil sharp.
John Lawrence Hanson, Ed.D., of Marion, teaches Social Studies with an emphasis on environmental issues at Linn-Mar High School. He sits on the Marion Tree Board.