Chew Review: Lincoln Winebar in Mount Vernon gets high marks for quality, service

Lincoln Winebar has been around for decades. But only recently has it started to gain recognition.

Over the last year, it’s been recognized by New York Times critics and Italian pizza publications alike for its wood-fired, artisan style.

With all the fuss, I decided to weigh in, too.

Pizza places are a dime a dozen. But the craft of pizza puts Lincoln Winebar in a league of its own — beyond the fast, commercialized pizza that dominates America.

This is a joint that lets pizza nourish you, not just sustain you.

How does the food look?

It looks like an American-made pizza that Italians would actually be willing to try.

How does it taste?

Each bite of crust is perfectly chewy with patches of char characteristic of the wood-fired style. Crust and cheese are buffered by a neutral, San Marzano tomato sauce that lets the natural beauty of a tomato shine in a way few pizza joints permit in Iowa.

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The toppings are the icing on the cake. Even common toppings are elevated, bringing new dimensions to each bite. Instead of bell peppers, they do piparras. Instead of white mushrooms, they do oyster mushrooms.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 out of 5 stars.

What’s the ambience like?

The space is very small, which is a double-edged sword.

Paired with its high-quality food and wine, it lends a certain intimacy and authenticity to the experience.

The centerpiece of the dining room, an Italian oven and pizza assembly area, doubles as entertainment. If there’s a lull in the conversation, just watch them toss dough for a few minutes.

A bust of Abraham Lincoln sports Mardi Gras beads in one corner; pizza pop art hangs in another.

But for a party of two, it’s difficult to get a table for dinner, even with reservations. Precious table space is saved for larger parties of three or more.

It can make a great date night — but only if you don’t mind sitting at the bar.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4 out of 5 stars.

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How was the service?

This restaurant has been busier since it started making big splashes in the news, but their staff is handling it exceptionally well.

Staff are knowledgeable about the wine, ready to guide the layman and connoisseur alike in an approachable way.

Everyone pitches in on a small staff. If servers aren’t near the door to accept new guests immediately, the man tossing pizza dough will act as an ad hoc maître d’.

The dining room was full on a Tuesday night, and our pizzas took more than 45 minutes. But the staff went above and beyond to make it well worth our while — completely unprompted.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 out of 5 stars.

What are the noise levels?

A mix of lively conversations and blended music genres gives the space a festive atmosphere that is not too loud, and not too quiet. You can easily have a conversation using an indoor voice.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 out of 5 stars.

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How about the location?

It’s situated on Mount Vernon’s main drag at 125 First St. W. The downtown is picturesque in its own right.

Free street parking surrounds the building, and is usually not too congested on weekdays.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 5 out of 5 stars.

Is it a good value?

Undoubtedly, yes. How much, however, is in the eye of the beholder.

If you compare this to a pizza place, it’s going to be pricier than average. Personal-sized pizzas average about $20 per person, which places this restaurant in a more upscale category.

But Lincoln Winebar’s qualities certainly merit the price.

⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4 out of 5 stars.

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Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or elijah.decious@thegazette.com.

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