Back to Basics: Discovering Frgál, the pizza-shaped kolach

Mention "kolaches," and for many in the United States, a certain image likely springs to mind – perhaps a round, sweet yeast pastry with a dollop of fruit or cheese in the center. In some parts of the USA, they've become so popular that while many cherish them, others find the available versions a bit ordinary. But the world of kolaches is far broader and more fascinating than these familiar examples suggest, holding regional specialties most Americans have probably never heard of.

Meet a unique kolache member: the Frgál (plural Frgále) from the Walachia region of the Czech Republic. Forget the small, individual pastry; the Frgál is a different beast altogether. Imagine a large, round, thin pastry that resembles a small pizza far more than its common cousins. Praised for a generous ratio of filling to dough and traditionally served sliced, it's a true showstopper. In this article, we'll explore this delightful departure from the everyday kolache, and you’ll be guided through making your own Frgál Kolach with Plum Filling.

Don't let the unique appearance or unfamiliar name of Frgále intimidate you! You might be surprised to learn that making this impressive, large pastry doesn't require any highly specialized or unusual baking tools beyond standard kitchen equipment you likely already have on hand. Furthermore, the process itself, while involving a few steps like any yeast dough, is surprisingly straightforward and easier to manage than you might first expect, making it a very achievable and rewarding bake.

It all begins with the leaven. To make it, combine lukewarm milk, bread flour, confectioner’s sugar and active dry yeast in a medium mixing bowl. Stir these ingredients thoroughly with a whisk for about 30 seconds until everything is fully combined and smooth. Next, cover the bowl securely with a plate or plastic wrap. Set this bowl aside in a warm place until the leaven has doubled in volume, which should take approximately 15 to 30 minutes.

To create a warm environment, use the oven's dough rising program. If your oven lacks this feature, preheat it to a comfortable, sauna-like temperature, turn it off, and place the leaven (and later the dough) inside.

With the leaven activated, you can proceed with making the main dough. In your kitchen mixer bowl fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the egg, granulated sugar, and soft butter (room temperature). Whisk these ingredients at high speed for 2 to 3 minutes until they are fully incorporated and creamy (can still be slightly runny). Next, add the prepared leaven you set aside earlier, along with lemon zest and salt, and whisk again on high for about one more minute just to combine everything. Now, switch the mixer's whisk attachment to the dough hook. Add bread flour and lukewarm milk to the bowl. Begin kneading at a slow speed for about a minute simply to bring the ingredients together partially. Then, increase the mixer speed to high and continue kneading until the dough becomes compact and starts pulling away from the sides of the bowl – this main kneading process can take only 2 minutes, but usually takes 6 to 9 minutes, sometimes even up to 10 minutes. Don't be alarmed if the dough seems too sticky at first; it should come together as it kneads, with most of it following the hook, although it might remain slightly sticky even when ready. If, after 10 minutes of high-speed kneading, the dough is still excessively sticky, add 1 tablespoon of flour and mix for another minute or two. If necessary, repeat adding flour one tablespoon at a time, mixing briefly after each addition, but use only as much as needed to achieve the desired, workable texture.

Once the dough has been properly kneaded, it's time for its rise. Remove the mixing bowl containing the dough from the mixer. Cover the bowl securely, using either a plate or plastic wrap to prevent the surface from drying out. Place the covered bowl in a warm place and let it rest. The goal is to allow the dough to rise until it has significantly increased in volume, roughly doubling or even tripling in its original size. This rising period typically takes about 2 hours.

When the dough is rising, it's the perfect time to prepare the delicious plum filling. Start by thoroughly cleaning the plums or prunes under cold water. Cut them in half, remove the seeds (but do not peel them), and then roughly chop the fruit into pieces. Place these chopped plums into a small saucepan over medium heat, adding the water and granulated sugar. Stir occasionally as you bring this mixture to a simmer. Once simmering, cover the pan with a lid and continue to cook for about 10 minutes, remembering to stir occasionally to prevent sticking.

After the covered cooking time, remove the lid and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, for another 5 to 10 minutes. The goal here is to reduce the liquid content by at least half, being careful not to cook it so long that the sugar starts to caramelize. Remove the saucepan from the heat and, while the mixture is still hot in the pot, briefly blend it using an immersion blender for about 5 seconds just to break it down slightly. Finally, add the breadcrumbs and stir thoroughly until they are fully incorporated. Set the finished filling aside; it can be used on the Frgále once it has partially or fully cooled, whichever is more convenient for your timing. If you want to make the preparation of the recipe even easier, you can skip this step and use any preserves or jams you already have at home, but homemade is always better in my opinion.

Before the dough is ready to form, it is also best to prepare the streusel topping. This is quite simple: place the stick of butter, 3/4 cup of flour, and 3/4 cup of granulated sugar into your kitchen mixer bowl fitted with a whisk attachment. Process these ingredients together at medium speed for about 2 to 3 minutes, just until everything is fully combined into a crumbly mixture. Once done, set the streusel aside for later use.

When the dough has doubled or tripled, it is time to get ready for forming the Frgále. First, prepare two sheets of parchment paper by drawing a large circle on each, aiming for a diameter anywhere between 11 and 12 inches (using a large dinner plate as a template can help create a perfect circle). Next, on a clean work surface without using any flour, divide the risen dough into two equal halves; each half will become one Frgál. Place one portion of dough onto each prepared parchment sheet, centering it within your drawn circle guide. Using a rolling pin, carefully roll out the dough, working from the center towards the edges of the circle. Continue rolling until the dough fills the circle guide, adjusting with a bowl scraper during or after rolling if needed to achieve a nice, even round shape.

Next, let the kolaches recover from forming by resting for 10 to 15 minutes at room temperature. During this time, preheat the oven to 370°F. It is preferable to use the convection feature if your oven has one, but you can also use a regular baking program to achieve great results.

Once the Frgále have rested and the oven is preheated to 370°F, it's time to bake them. Carefully place both baking sheets with the formed and proofed Frgále into the hot oven. While a convection oven setting works best for ensuring even heat when baking two sheets at once, you can successfully bake both together in a regular program, too. Bake for approximately 15 to 20 minutes; you'll know they're ready when the edges turn a nice, light brown, appetizing color. To promote even browning, rotate the baking sheets about halfway through the baking time, around the 10-minute mark. After baking, carefully remove the Frgále from the oven and let them cool fully, or at least partially, before attempting to slice or serve. Be particularly cautious, as the filling will be extremely hot right out of the oven and needs ample time to cool to a safe temperature.

When the Frgále have cooled down enough to handle and eat safely, they are ready to be served. Using a pizza cutter or a sharp knife, cut each large Frgál into individual portions – typically into quarters (four slices) or into sixths (six slices). Right before presenting them or placing them on plates, give the slices a final dusting by sprinkling them generously with confectioners’ sugar for a traditional and appealing finish.

Kolaches come in many varieties, differing not only in their fillings but also in their shape and overall style. The most common type, popular in the Czech Republic, Slovakia, and also the USA, is the open-faced kolache, usually measuring 4 to 5 inches in diameter. Traditionally made versions of these often have a generous amount of dough compared to the amount of filling. However, other distinct styles exist, such as small wedding kolaches (under 2 inches wide with the filling hidden inside) or large versions the size of a small pizza called Frgále, introduced in today's article. This pizza-sized kolache typically has a high topping-to-dough ratio (around 60% toppings to 40% dough) and is served sliced. The first mention of these kolaches dates back to 1826, and they are a traditional product of the Czech region of Wallachia, same as the plum brandy called Slivovitz.

Tom Slepicka is the founder of www.cookinghub.com, and is a recipe creator, culinary instructor, chef, and a consultant. You can reach him at tom@cookinghub.com.