Back to Basics: Czech Pletýnka Bun

Step away from the standard dinner roll and discover the pletýnka, a favorite savory staple from the Czech Republic. This traditional bun is far more than just braided dough; it's a marvel of hearty comfort, elevated by the subtle richness of yeast and butter.

Imagine serving a golden, knotted roll fresh from your oven, its shape hinting at the intricate history of European baking. This recipe will show you how to master the surprisingly simple one-strand braid, transforming everyday flour and milk into a centerpiece of Central European culinary heritage.

To begin your journey into making these delectable Czech braided buns, you'll start with the fundamentals in your stand mixer. Combine the dry ingredients first: a generous amount of bread flour to provide structure, along with the active dry yeast, a touch of sugar to feed it and salt for flavor. Give this mixture a quick stir with a whisk. You'll notice this means that you are adding the active dry yeast directly in; in many modern recipes, including this one, you don't need to activate it in liquid first if the dry ingredients are properly stirred together. This quick mix is enough to integrate them before moving to the wet components.

Next, introduce the lukewarm milk and the soft, room-temperature butter. This butter is key, as it provides the rich flavor and tender texture that makes the pletýnka stand out. Begin kneading slowly, just long enough to partially incorporate everything, then kick the mixer up to medium-high speed. In just another couple of minutes, the dough will come together into a compact and cohesive ball — a perfect foundation for the unique, slightly sweet and totally different bread you're about to create.

Once your dough is perfectly kneaded and compact, it's time for the first crucial wait: the rise. This is where the yeast works its magic, developing flavor and creating the air pockets that will give your Pletýnka buns their wonderfully light texture. Simply remove the bowl from your mixer and cover it tightly with a plate or plastic wrap — this traps moisture and warmth, creating the perfect environment for the yeast. Let it rest.

In a slightly warm oven or close to a fireplace, it will take about two hours to at least double in size. If you're just leaving it at normal room temperature, be a little more patient, as it will likely take three to four hours to reach the same volume. This step is essential for the airy final product, so don't rush it!

When your dough is beautifully risen and full of life, it's time to divide it for the final shaping. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface. It's very important that you do not flour this surface; the generous amount of butter in this rich dough is all you need to prevent it from sticking.

Place the dough on a clean surface (make sure there is no flour on it) and separate into eight even pieces, about 5 ounces each, using a bowl scraper and scale. (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Form each piece of dough into compact dough balls simply using your hands. (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Roll each piece into a strand – a long rope shape -- with a thickness of about one-half to three-quarters of an inch and a length of 12 to 16 inches. (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Take the left end of the strand and fold it halfway into the center (direction away from your body) and then connect the fold by lightly pressing it together with your right hand. This creates an “eye” on the left side. Keep the finger that presses it together on that spot to hold the connection. (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Twist the “eye” on the left away from your body using your left hand. Then pull the right side of the strand all the way through the “eye” using your right hand (release the connection beforehand). (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Place the pletýnka on the baking sheet and then process the same way with the remaining dough. After you are completely done, you should have 4 pletýnka buns on each baking sheet. (Tom Slepicka/for The Gazette)

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Using a bowl scraper and a kitchen scale for accuracy, divide the dough into eight even pieces, aiming for about 5 ounces each. Take each piece and, using your hands, form it into a compact, tight dough ball. As you finish each one, place it aside and cover all the finished balls with a clean dish towel. Let them rest for about five to 10 minutes. This short "bench rest" is a critical step. It allows the gluten you just worked to relax, which will make the next stage — rolling them into long 12- to 16-inch strands for braiding — significantly easier.

For an even lighter, airier bun with a consistency similar to a hoagie roll, you have the option to let them proof a bit longer until they've nearly tripled in size. Just be careful, because if you let them expand too much, you risk over-proofing, which will cause them to collapse in the oven and become flat.

And don't worry about baking all eight buns if you can't eat them at once; these pletýnka freeze beautifully for up to six months. Just let them cool completely, store them in a freezer-safe bag, and they'll defrost perfectly at room temperature in only two hours.

What is pletýnka? The pletýnka (sometimes called houska) is a popular Czech braided bun that is distinctly savory, setting it apart from sweeter Czech pastries like koláče or the hole-less koblihy. Pletýnka is made from a basic yeast-risen dough, distinguishable primarily by its compact, woven or knotted form.

Pletýnka is generally eaten as a bread roll served with spreads like butter, cold cuts, or cheese, or used to accompany savory dishes such as goulash.

History of pletýnka. The Pletýnka bun, whose name translates to "little braid" or "plait," holds a history as a simple, everyday bread staple in the Czech lands. The consistent shape of the pletýnka was important for distinguishing it from other rolls in the bakery trade.

While the oldest records of braided bread in the region date back to the 14th century, the savory pletýnka as a distinct, mass-produced bread roll became a common feature of daily Czech commerce by the early 20th century, establishing its enduring presence in bakeries across the country.

Pletýnka vs. vánočka. The core distinction between pletýnka and vánočka lies in flavor and tradition, while both can also be called houska. Pletýnka is an everyday, savory bread.

Conversely, vánočka is the special, elaborate sweet bread mostly consumed at Christmas, but in Czech available all year long. Its dough is significantly richer with higher amounts of fat and sugar, and it's flavored with traditional additions like lemon zest, raisins and almonds.

While houska historically served as a general term for various braided buns, today, many Czechs primarily associate the term houska with the common, savory Pletýnka bun and may not even be aware of its historical connection to the holiday vánočka.

Pletýnka toppings. Pletýnk buns are traditionally finished with savory toppings to enhance their aromatic Czech flavor. The most traditional topping is a combination of coarse salt and caraway seeds, or simply poppy seeds, which are also very common. While these classics remain popular, modern bakers often incorporate a wider variety of options.

Other common toppings today include black and/or white sesame seeds, sunflower seeds or any other kind of seeds, and even crushed pepper flakes for a touch of heat. A special note should be made regarding the salt: both salt crystals and coarse salt are popular finishing choices, but they should be avoided if you plan to freeze or refrigerate the buns, as the salt can cause them to become soggy upon thawing.

Tom Slepicka is the founder of www.cookinghub.com, and is a recipe creator, culinary instructor, chef, and a consultant. You can reach him at tom@cookinghub.com.