Review: ‘Sweetbitter’

Stephanie Danler's debut and best-selling novel, 'Sweetbitter,” simmers with sensuality. The book is narrated by Tess, a 22-year-old who leaves her small town for New York City and joins the staff of one of the city's finest restaurants. She learns about service and food while - as is requisite in coming-of-age novels - she also learns about life and love.

Danler is able to convincingly portray restaurant life - the long hours, the unspoken hierarchies, the demands on mind and body, the alliances and feuds - because she worked at Union Square Cafe, one of the most iconic restaurants in New York. She captures the whirl of restaurant life as well as its episodic nature. The contrast between the controlled (or seemingly controlled) environment of the restaurant is sharply contrasted with the wild nights fueled by drugs and alcohol Tess partakes of after hours.

While learning her new trade, Tess finds herself in thrall to Simone, a worldly woman whose mastery of restaurant and its denizens is nearly flawless, and Jake, a sexy and mysterious bartender with a connection to Simone. Danler lets these relationship develop slowly, their complexities like strong spices brought together to develop flavor over low heat.

The book's erotic undertones - notably emphasized in the audiobook edition by the husky-voiced narration of Alex McKenna - are a steady pulse throughout 'Sweetbitter.” The novel's characters are hungry, often for something or someone elusive or dangerous. For her part, Tess is determined to taste life in all its richness, including the contrasting tones of the novel's title.