For the trees

While savoring a chicken roulade dinner in Lied Lodge's Timber Dining Room we watched the setting sun illuminate distant Arbor Lodge, the home that J. Sterling Morton built. Nestled in trees he planted, the house overlooks Arbor Day Farm.

A visit to Arbor Day Farm in Nebraska City, Neb., blends human and natural history, and family outdoor adventure with the opportunity to stay in a luxurious yet rustic lodge, enjoy gourmet meals, learn about trees and perhaps even take in some golf.

Nebraska City is perched just across the Missouri River from Iowa about 40 miles south of Omaha. An easy five-hour drive from Cedar Rapids, it's a gem of a weekend destination. It was where Arbor Day was founded in 1872 and today's visitors take in the wonders of trees. Even carpets and lampshades in Lied Lodge have a tree or leaf motif. Orchards perch on a hillside, a nursery propagates thousands of seedlings that are sent all over the country and kids and intrepid parents can climb to a magical treehouse way up in a canopy of ancient oaks.

In most states Arbor Day is celebrated on the fourth week of April and resulted from the vision, work and political connections of J. Sterling Morton. Born in New York in 1832 he grew up in Michigan and later moved to Nebraska, where he became a successful publisher, father and politician. His passion was tree planting. Among Morton's many legacies are mature trees gracing towns across America, the continuation of Arbor Day's tree planting mission and today's Arbor Day Farm. Some knowledge of forest history helps understand his vision.

Morton grew up during the age of wood. Wood fires cooked meals and heated American homes. Wood fueled steamboats and locomotives, while millions of trees were cut to craft cross ties as railroad networks expanded. Before barbed wire was invented in 1879, millions more trees were cut to create fences, and the once vast Eastern Hardwood forest had been mostly cleared for crop land. By the late 1800s loggers were exterminating the pine woods of the upper Great Lakes states and just beginning to move their mills and saws to the Pacific Northwest to begin an assault on its forests.

Morton moved to one of the least naturally forested states, bought land at Nebraska City, and soon began planting trees and raising a family. Forest loss and millions of new homes lacking even a single yard tree stirred his tree planting passion. A well-connected politician, Morton successfully encouraged Congress to declare the first annual Arbor Day in 1872, a tradition that continues 143 years later. Most states celebrate Arbor Day during the last week of April. Iowa's is the last Friday of the month.

Morton and wife Caroline's four sons all went on to distinguished and visible careers. Joy Morton founded the Morton Salt Co. and shared his father's passion for trees. He established the Morton Arboretum in Lisle, Ill. Mark Morton assisted in founding the Morton Salt Co. According to information posted at Arbor Lodge, he married Martha Parkhurst Weare, daughter of John Weare of Cedar Rapids. Carl Morton founded the Argo Corn Starch Co. while a fourth son, Paul, served as U.S. Secretary of the Navy under President Theodore Roosevelt. Many members of this successful family are buried in Wyuka Cemetery near the family mansion, called Arbor Lodge. Their graves are appropriately marked with a concrete headstone crafted to look like a big tree.

A century after the first Arbor Day, the nonprofit Arbor Day Foundation was formed to continue the vision of J. Sterling Morton. Much had changed in the previous 100 years. America had shifted from wood fuel to coal and then petroleum, taking some pressure off forests. Barbed wire reduced the need for wood fences, and many farmers had abandoned marginal land in the East that reverted naturally to woodland. Americans also realized that plundering forests could not continue, and the profession of forestry emerged along with a growing conservation ethic. Millions of trees are still cut annually to provide wood for many uses, but today's forests are managed sustainably.

The Arbor Day Foundation encourages tree planting, sells trees at low cost, educates people about trees and sponsors the well-known Tree City program that encourages municipal planting. It also conducts research and is cooperating with several universities to develop productive strains of hybrid hazelnuts - the kinds that flavor our coffee. The Foundation operates Arbor Day Farm, an outstanding place for a weekend visit or to hold a conference.

Although the days of forest plunder are past, the need to plant trees remains. Ironically, trees planted during early Arbor Days are over a century old and nearing the end of their lives. Many need replacing. Waves of exotic tree diseases and pests devastated chestnuts and elms, and now the Emerald Ash borer is eliminating this gorgeous tree from forests and cities. New trees need to be planted.

The million member strong Arbor Day Foundation operates the 260-acre Arbor Day Farm that includes orchards, woodlands, Lied Lodge and Conference Center, the Tree Adventure, Arbor Links Golf Course and a 9-acre hazelnut research plot. It also operates Arbor Lodge, the mansion built by J. Sterling Morton, under an agreement with Nebraska State Parks, which owns the structure. It is adjacent to the farm.

There's plenty to do at Arbor Day Farm to fill a couple of days.

Built in 1993, Lied Lodge and Conference Center is undergoing major renovation. Its 140 guest rooms feature tree pillars, impressive woodwork, lamps with leaf designs and windows overlooking - trees. The Lodge includes a spa and large swimming pool; various types of massage can be arranged. Named for the Omaha-based Lied Foundation that provided a major grant to establish it, income from the Lodge supports tree planting.

Room rates vary depending on the season and day of the week. Check the website for prices, reservations and photos of guest rooms. Lied Lodge may have a rustic tree theme, but it is a place of luxury.

When we visited, a group of friends had converged for the 12th time from many states and filled a large conference room with sewing machines. As they socialized, sewing machines hummed and needles rose and fell through various cloth creations. According to Marketing Director Amy Stouffer, Lied Lodge hosts conferences of varied sizes frequently.

A short walk from the lodge is the foundation's Apple House. Each fall it processes and sells apples grown in a nearby orchard. In late winter, the building is used to process millions of tree seedlings that staff place in shipping containers and mail to customers throughout the nation.

Adjacent to the Apple House is Tree Adventure. After passing through a modern interpretive center that includes interactive displays and a holographic welcome by J. Sterling Morton himself, visitors step out the back door and enter the forest. A winding path weaves through ancient oaks with tunnels, hammocks, animal tracks, riddles and hidden gnomes that thrill kids and parents. The Tree Adventure's main feature is a massive treehouse, and no visit is complete without climbing up to enjoy a view of the tree canopy.

Arbor Links Golf Course is on Arbor Day Farm and is operated by a private organization. It's a member-only facility, but any overnight guest at Lied Lodge is automatically a member and welcome to play.

During warm months, the Morton family mansion, called Arbor Lodge welcomes visitors. It has outside pillars reminiscent of the White House and period furnishings and decor dating back to the late 1800s. Nearby is Wyuka Cemetery with its massive tree shaped headstone marking the graves of several Morton family members.

Nebraska City features campgrounds, motels and restaurants unaffiliated with the Arbor Day Foundation at a variety of prices.

The grounds of Arbor Day Farm are open to the public. A small fee is charged to access the Tree Adventure.

Two annual events are sponsored by the community of Nebraska City. Activities happen at Arbor Day Farm and throughout town. They include an Arbor Day Festival held the fourth week of April and the Applejack Festival held toward the end of September.

A visit to Arbor Day Farm with a stay at Lied Lodge and Conference Center is a rare opportunity to stay overnight in a luxury lodge and enjoy gourmet dining while immersed in tree history and lore. And having just a darned good time.

IF YOU GO

' Lodging: Lied Lodge and Conference Center, liedlodge.org, (402) 873-8733

' Arbor Day Farm visits and tree information: www.arborday.org

' Trees Forever: Marion-based Trees Forever is not affiliated with the Arbor Day Foundation but both groups encourage people to plant and appreciate trees. Trees Forever focuses on Iowa and Illinois while the Arbor Day Foundation is worldwide. Contact them at treesforever.org or (319) 373-0650.