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The Iowa Gardener: Planting pointers
It’s never too late to plant something
It may be mid-summer, but there’s still plenty of planting to be done.
Outdoor planting is not a one-and-done proposition. Instead, it can happen throughout the growing season, with most successful gardeners always tucking in some plant or seeds or another, from late winter through late fall.
Certain poppy seeds, for example, can be planted right on top of the snow. In March and April, plant cool-season annuals like pansies, lettuces, and bachelor's buttons, which start to brown and go to seed when the temperatures get regularly into the 80s. In early to mid-May, after the last frost date, you can plant all the warm-season annuals that would be otherwise damaged by subfreezing temperatures, like tomatoes, peppers, and marigolds. And as late as early October, you can plant most perennials, trees and shrubs.
Bottom line: It's almost always time to plant something! Here's how to have the best success with your planting, no matter when you do it.
- Let the weather forecast dictate your planting times. The best planting weather is cool, overcast and with a forecast of rain. Avoid hot, dry, sunny, windy days. If you absolutely have to plant during hot weather, do it in the early evening when the sun is low so plants have at least a few hours to get established.
- Overestimate sun. In Iowa, where the sun is less direct than in southern climes, when deciding where to position your plants, err on the side of too much sun. Most gardeners underestimate how much sun an area gets and the plants end up leggy, weak, and struggling as a result.
- Look at the label or check online for a plants' sun needs. Full sun means at least six hours (and preferably eight or more) of direct, unfiltered sunlight a day, including during the shorter days of spring. Partial shade/partial sun means four to six hours (preferably more) of sun a day. And full shade is four hours or less of direct, unfiltered light a day.
- Group plants with like water needs. Group plants that need lots of water (think impatiens, astilbe and hydrangeas) together — and preferably close to a hydrant. This helps you to be more efficient with your watering and you won't have to douse drought-tolerant plants (sedums, thyme, lantana, moss rose) with too much water in order to satisfy their neighbor.
- Don't plant dehydrated plants. Transplanting is stressful stuff. Plants need to be well-watered to survive the transition. If a plant looks dry or even slightly wilted, give it a good water and allow it to rehydrate overnight.
- Dig big. Make your hole at least as deep as any pot you are transplanting from and twice as wide. Plants appreciate being surrounded by loose soil that allows them to spread their roots and for water to drain away freely.
- Add compost. Compost is called black gold by gardeners, and for good reason. Add a trowel full of compost to small holes and a spadeful of compost to larger holes. It feeds, helps retain moisture, helps drainage, attracts beneficial earthworms, and contains valuable microorganisms and micronutrients.
- Every plant has a face. Established plants in pots seem to have a good side, or a side that looks better facing this way or that. Take a look and position the plant accordingly.
- Mulch. After planting, mulch with what gardeners call and “organic” mulch, that is, a mulch that breaks down over time, such as wood chips or bark, grass clippings, newspapers, or straw. It will help conserve moisture as the plant gets established, prevent soil from splashing on the plant and causing diseases, prevent runoff, and eventually breakdown and feed and improve the texture of the soil.
- Even if it's supposed to rain, be sure to water seeds or plants as soon as you get them in the ground. Watering helps the soil settle in and eliminates air pockets, which can dry out plants,
- Keep watering. Most plants need a couple of weeks of babying — that is, regular watering — until they get established. Then you can water them less often as needed.
Veronica Lorson Fowler is co-publisher of the Iowa Gardener website at www.theiowagardener.com.
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