Review: Top Chef returns to in-person format in Iowa City

IOWA CITY — It’s back and it’s packing a punch, folks. Downtown Iowa City’s Top Chef has returned to its in-person format, and the flavors are as good as ever.

With 26 downtown Iowa City businesses that participated in this year’s event, held at The Graduate on Feb. 28, there were almost too many things to try in one night.

Almost.

See which special items made the list, and where my picks agreed with the judges’ and People’s Choice awards.

My favorites in each category

Entrees

1. Caserecce Pasta Buonissimo by Chef Gianluca Baroncini at Baroncini

Google Translate informs me the name means “yummy homemade pasta,” from its original Italian. That’s a good descriptor, although I think “yummy” is understating it.

The caserecce pasta are short twists of dough that almost seem to roll up on themselves.

After getting a bite of all the components together — pasta, smoked bacon, champignon mushrooms, pecorino cheese, cream — my head started to float from the symphony of flavors. At the beginning, I tasted the creamy cheese, smoky bacon, and sauce dressing the tender pasta. A second bite into the chives topping the dish was the only string tethering the balloon that was my head to earth.

The pecorino cheese was strong and incisive enough to conduct the orchestra. The sauce was thick and strong enough that I had to go get a drink from one of the mixologist vendors down the hall.

This entree won third place in the People’s Choice entree awards.

2. Smoked Pork Loin by Chef Matthew Prince at Pullman Bar & Diner

The chef’s faith in something as small as mustard seeds really helped make this much more than smoked pork.

Immediately, the pork, sauce and watercress lure you in. Next, the nutty, roasted taste of the tiny mustard seeds draw out the smoked aura of the pork. On the side, the salsa verde introduces you to the confit sweet potato and braised cabbage, which are a sweet treat in their own rite.

The pork itself wasn’t as tender as the other pork dishes offered at Top Chef, but it wasn’t just about how soft it was. The flavor, altogether, was beautiful — no ingredient was superfluous or out of place.

This entree won first place with the judges and second place in the People’s Choice for entree awards.

3. Cuban sandwich and congri by Chef Jacqueline Milian at Mammita’s Coffee

A well-marbled, fatty flavor oozes from this sandwich as soon as you sink your teeth into it. There didn’t seem to be much sauce on it, and I was glad — it didn’t need it.

As you enjoy the singular focus on the pork, a sweet little pickle comes in and asks if there’s anything they can do for you.

“No, thanks,” you reply politely.

The focus of the pork was so tender that I didn’t realize there was a thin slice of ham until I got toward the end of the sandwich.

Luscious black beans and rice, called congri, complemented this with a perfectly soft, moist texture and a hint of coconut that wasn’t too sweet.

The owners of Mammita’s have roots in Central America, according to their website, but they could have easily fooled me into thinking they were from the Caribbean given the flavor of this rice. It’s better than the rice and beans I’ve had from many Caribbean restaurants.

4. Porchetta with warm chicories by Chef Chris Grebner at Goosetown

I’m mentioning this dish not because it was one of my favorite flavors of the night, but because I think it was well-constructed and worth appreciating, even if the components in the dish aren’t in line with my personal taste.

As soon as you get a mouthful of the pork topped with chicories, the pork really starts to boss you around — it was a strong flavor. I asked what it was seasoned with, but it had too many components for me to list here.

The hazelnut-citrus vinaigrette appears briefly to moderate the impending altercation between the pork and strong cheese crumbles — I want to say they were blue cheese. The mediation was ultimately unsuccessful.

I can appreciate the combination of these flavors and the complexities they bring to the table.

By itself, the pork is fatty and well-cooked. It might have been slightly more personable without so much star anise (think black licorice) from the first bite.

Drinks

5. The Golden Ticket by Mixologist Jenni Cannella at Gene’s

This bourbon drink reminds me of a friend in college who knew how to have a good time at parties but also knew how to hold her liquor — balanced.

With Cedar Ridge bourbon, Domaine de Canton, passionfruit-peppercorn syrup and bitters, it has notes of coconut, orange and passion fruit that make you feel like you’re escaping the cold.

It’s a strong drink, for sure. The buzz gets to your head almost immediately after a couple sips.

Going by the essence of this drink’s vibes, the mixologist could have easily chosen to go a tequila route. But the complexities of the bourbon command more respect for this tropical-esque getaway. This is a proper, upscale vacation — not a spring break escapade in Panama City Beach.

This drink won second place in the People’s Choice mixology awards.

6. “I am Groot” by Mixologist Heather Utterback at SpareMe Bowl and Arcade

Beautifully mellow and sweet, you taste the St. Germaine immediately. It’s a little sugary, but refreshing, thanks to hints of cucumber from the vodka.

The carbonation keeps the simple syrup from sticking to your tongue or leaving much of an aftertaste, followed by a refreshing lemon finish.

This drink won first place in the People’s Choice mixology awards.

Desserts

7. Moroccan Macaron by Chef Hicham Chehouani at Crepes de Luxe Cafe

As the chef explains, this confection has no sugar, but rather crushed almonds on top to provide sweetness. My expectations of this were tempered, only because I’m a huge fan of sugar.

As I grab the dainty bite, my fingers stuck with an ever so slight grip to it, which is a good analogy for this dessert. It’s just enough to capture my attention but not too sweet.

With a soft center, it’s perfectly chewy throughout without being underbaked. Made with honey, pure vanilla and dates, it reminds me of a Fig Newton that grew up, moved to the big city and got a fancy job.

Although it contains no orange, the very light aroma that lingered throughout each bite was giving me hints of orange blossom — like petals floating in the breeze.

Comments: (319) 398-8340; elijah.decious@thegazette.com