Johnson County Supervisor Royceann Porter connects with constituents at her new soul food restaurant

IOWA CITY — Royceann’s Soul Food Restaurant isn’t just a place where owner Royceann Porter serves golden fried chicken wings, steaming macaroni and cheese, and crispy-shelled beef tacos.

It’s where Porter, a Johnson County Board of Supervisors member, meets her constituents.

Like Kathy Huedepohl, who recently visited the restaurant in the South District Market, a mini-food hall on Iowa City’s southeast side. She ordered a pork chop, mac and cheese and candied yams.

“It’s good,” Huedepohl said about her meal. “I live here in the South District, in Saddlebrook, and I noticed what Royceann and others have done with the Diversity Market and now this store. I wanted to come check it out.”

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Soul food part of Porter’s childhood

The dishes on Porter’s menu are foods she grew up eating in Saginaw, Mich. Many come with childhood memories.

“Back in the day, when we had collard greens, we had to pick them. They were on a plant and you had to pick the leaves off the stem. You cut them up and you have to wash them a couple of times to get the grit off,” she said, using her hands to repeat the motions she did as a child.

The greens are then stewed with smoked turkey or ham hocks for four hours.

“You can’t rush ’em,” Porter said.

Royceann’s Soul Food serves a daily special for $18 that comes with a choice of fried catfish, a pork chop or chicken wings and then two sides from a list that includes candied yams, corn on the cob, fried cabbage, mac and cheese, spaghetti and cornbread.

On Thursdays, she also serves four deep-fried tacos with rice and beans ($15) or super nachos ($15) or four tacos for $12. For dessert, you’ll find $3 cups of banana pudding.

“I’ve had a couple of white people say ‘Hey, can you make me a pan of banana pudding for the holiday?’ That’s one of the big hits,” Porter said.

The night before the March 25 grand opening, Porter stayed up all night prepping vegetables and meats and baking cornbread. With Jonathan Simpson, her nephew and head cook, and Tony Currin, they opened at noon. By 5 p.m. all the food was gone.

“Business has been wonderful,” Porter said.

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Balancing business and county duties

But it’s been an adjustment to balance a new business with work as a supervisor. After initially serving lunch, Porter shifted her hours Wednesday through Friday to 4 to 10 p.m. This allows her to attend county meetings and work sessions earlier in the day. The restaurant is closed Monday and Tuesday.

Some customers recognize that Porter is an elected official.

“They come in here and say ‘You’re on City Council’ and I was, like, ‘No, Johnson County supervisor,’ ” she said.

Once a customer wanted to talk about city business and Porter pointed him to Iowa City Council Member Pauline Taylor, who just happened to be eating at the restaurant. Iowa City Mayor Bruce Teague eats at Royceann’s Soul Food at least once a week, Porter said.

Not only does Porter work with her nephew, but her daughters, Antonia Porter and Staci Porter, both of Iowa City, come down to help out when the restaurant is busy.

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South District Market has food, coffee, clothing

The South District Market has three other vendors: Early Bird Cafe, which serves coffee, wraps and salads; Cachua Cakes, which serves tortas — Mexican sandwiches — and tres leches cakes; and a store with wide-brimmed hats and other clothing items.

The market is in the front of the former Slumberland store. The back part of the building now is StoreLocal Iowa City, which leases self-storage units. A covered outdoor patio with tables is available if diners want to take their food outside.

Tony Currin, who ran for Iowa House District 89 last year, but was not elected, chats with customers and promotes the food hall: “From the Early Bird Cafe in the morning to tortas for lunch and then us for dinner, we’ve got your whole day covered.”

Comments: (319) 339-3157; erin.jordan@thegazette.com

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