My Biz: Customers go for that old-fashioned feel

By Rebecca Groff, correspondent

Names: Karen and Craig Vondracek,

Jim and Julie Popelka

Title: Owners

Company: Káva House & Café

Address: 122 2nd St. SE, Swisher

Phone: (319) 857-5000

Website: www.KavaHouseCafe.com

Elevator pitch: Káva is Czech for coffee.

The Káva House & Café is jammed at the same time every day - between noon and 1 p.m.

The restaurant is reminiscent of the Whistle Stop Café in the “Fried Green Tomatoes” movie, co-owner Kren Vondracek said, in that “Everyone comes in for lunch at the same time.”

The surprise for return customers is that meals “are really consistent. When they come in for something they had before, they will get exactly what they had before.”

The family-owned coffee house and cafe opened its doors for business in November 2008 in the former Swisher General Store. Built in 1914 and run for many years by the Cox family, the establishment had a bar on one side and a soda fountain on the other, Vondracek says her husband, Craig, recalls.

The late Mrs. Cox served Campbell's soup and a maid rite at lunch time.

“That's why the first thing on our menu is Cecile's All-Beef Made-Right,” she explained. “We wanted to name the sandwich after the woman who made it.”

Soups are still a big part of the menu and two different ones are featured every day, but they do not come from a can. The soda fountain feel remains with old-fashioned malteds and shakes using Madison-based Wisconsin Chocolate Shoppe Ice Cream products.

The Vondraceks' share ownership of the cafe with her brother, Jim Popelka, and his wife, Julie, while 20 full- and part-time employees - mostly family and friends - work there at different times of the year. A neighbor comes in every Monday to clean.

“She won't even accept any pay,” Karen Vondracek says, “so we give her food.”

The shop serves frappés, chai tea, fruit smoothies and lattes. The sandwich and salad offerings are more eclectic than standard Midwestern fare, incorporating ingredients such as raspberry horseradish, havarti cheese, apple butters, sautéed vegetables or Champagne mustard.

She noted that the chicken-pineapple salad is a customer favorite during the summer season. Special desserts such as Black Bottom Cake and Berry Bread Pudding also are top sellers.

“Every Saturday night is a special meal in addition to our regular menu items,” Karen said, with a prime rib dinner offered on the first Saturday of the month. “My husband does all of the specials.”

All desserts and pies are baked by niece Jessie, who runs the kitchen and grill full time alongside longtime family friend Ginny. Karen and her brother bake the yeast products they serve.

“I do the cinnamon rolls and my brother makes the kolaches.”

Even Karen's parents, David and Marilyn Popelka, are involved in the business.

“My dad repairs our chairs and builds equipment for us. If there is any sewing to be done, my mother takes care of that for us,” she said.