McClain returns home to start Lion Bridge Brewing

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It's a passion for beer that has led to Europe, South America, and all corners of the U.S. – but it didn't start out so glamorously.

The first beer Quinton McClain ever brewed was with his father and grandfather. They had crates of old bottles from the former bottle works embossed with the word 'LIFE,' that they wanted to fill.

'It turned out horrible, we dumped it all,' McClain recalled with a laugh.

Now, McClain is preparing to open his own brewery in the historic Czech Village. Lion Bridge Brewery, at 59 16th Ave SW, will open March 5.

A family trip to Belgium as a teenager first sparked McClain's interest in the culture of beer and food. When he moved to Fort Colins, Colo., for college, he found a community that had gathered around local craft brews – the city even has hotels and tours catering specifically to beer tourists. McClain then traveled to Buenos Aires, Argentina for a few years, where he worked for a newspaper, taught English and continued to explore unique flavors.

McClain learned about the art of brewing in Amana, home to Millstream Brewing, at the Fort Collins Brewery and at a course in Chicago. He has spent years working in different pubs and traveling to all corners of the country to experience not only different beers, but the different cultures around them.

Now, he's ready to create his own.

McClain returned to his hometown in 2011, after he saw it through a new lens – when he saw investment in the downtown area, a thriving New Bohemia, and a public with a newly-awakened appetite for all things local.

'It's very exciting to see people take the flood as an opportunity to redefine what Cedar Rapids is,' he said. 'Growing up here, you have a totally different perspective.'

He channeled that newfound excitement for his hometown into finding the perfect spot for his brewery. It had to be urban, and it had to have character.

'Every building I went by, I would think, could that be a brewery?' he said.

Along with his parents, who founded Cedar Rapids' CornerHouse Gallery& Frame in 1976 and operated it until 2007, McClain was able to purchase a historic brick building at 59 16

^th

Avenue SW. One block away from the National Czech and Slovak Museum, the structure dates to 1938 when it opened as Fritz's Food Market. An extensive restoration began in September.

The McClains have restored the glazed brick, raised the ceiling to its original height and opened windows that have been boarded up for more than 50 years.

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One side of the interior will feature communal, beer hall style seating, while the other side will have table service and a copper bar.  The taproom and restaurant can seat 85, and an outdoor patio will seat 30 when it is finished this summer.

Brewing began in January, and McClain has given sneak peeks of his brews on a few occasions, at BrewNost in October, and recently at NewBo City Market and Startup Weekend Cedar Rapids. He plans to open with five beers and a few handmade sodas. Eventually, his 21 taps will also feature more Lion Bridge originals and guest brews from other local breweries.

The small food menu will be designed to complement the brews, and will include salty and crunchy snacks, beer cheese and other dips, finger foods and heartier seasonal dishes. Deborah Kaiser, who is chef and part-owner, will be overseeing the food portion of the menu.

While the beer may have Belgian and English influences, McClain said he hopes to craft brews that are 'very distinctly American.' Prohibition wiped out immigrant beer cultures in America, leaving ample room for experimentation with flavors, and a recent change to Iowa law allows for beer styles that have higher alcohol volumes.

'It's sort of fun to take the American approach – we're not beholden to anyone else's culture,' McClain said. 'There are no rules for beer.'