Library is central to L.A.’s heart

Los Angeles vacations generally include Disneyland, Universal Studios and other attractions with hefty admission fees.

You can, though, visit a place that combines stately architecture, amazing artwork, historical relevance and learning for free.

In advance of National Library Week, which starts today and continues through Saturday, I toured the Los Angeles Central Library.

Formally called the Richard J. Riordan Central Library, named for a former Los Angeles mayor, the building is the flagship and headquarters of the Los Angeles Public Library system, with 72 branch libraries.

As the nation's third-largest public library, it has the additional distinctions of being identified as a Los Angeles Historic Cultural Monument and was placed on the National Register of Historic Places.

City of Angels

The story of Los Angeles as a world-class city started rather inauspiciously. Its first census taken in 1841 indicated only 141 residents. But with the advent of railroads and promoters touting the city's merits on the east coast, by 1900, the population was 100,000. In the next five years, it doubled to 200,000. And, as the saying goes, the rest is, well, history.

Like many other cities looking to make their mark, Los Angeles needed an educated workforce. In short, it needed a public library. Since 1872, it had a library system, but it was available only by subscription. For $5 a year or $50 in gold for a lifetime membership, quite a pocketful of change then, one could get a library card. Plans soon began to develop the free library system we take for granted today.

The Goodhue Building

In 1926, the Central Library finally opened. Its 230,000 square feet was designed by architect Bertram Goodhue. Though he died at age 50 before the building was completed, it still is known by his name. Much of the building reflects influences of ancient Egypt, a reflection of the discovery of King Tut's tomb in 1922. On its roof is a mosaic pyramid with a finial of a golden hand holding the Torch of Learning entwined by the Serpent of Knowledge. Today, a replica adorns the pyramid, but the original can be seen inside the library.

Because Goodhue believed in the integration of art with architecture, he sought collaboration for his design. With the help of sculptor Lee Lowrie; philosopher University of Nebraska professor Hartley Burr Alexander; and painters, Julian Garnsey, Dean Cornwell and others, the planning began.

All together, they conceived of a building that was more than a mere structure; in keeping with its purpose, it was also a book and text. Its theme became Light of Learning and is used metaphorically both inside and out.

One especially stunning room is the rotunda. Once the hub of activity when it housed the card catalog and circulation area, computerization of the collection now allows for the quiet contemplation of artist Dean Cornwell's depiction of the four great eras of California history: Discovery, Mission Building, Americanization and the Founding of Los Angeles.

Costing $50,000 and painted with oil on Belgian linen, the murals took five years to complete. Artist Lee Lowrie's Zodiac Chandelier is made of cast bronze with 48 lights around the rim that represent the then-48 states.

Other priceless artwork includes Lee Lowrie's Civilization, a marble statue of a woman whose right hand holds a book with quotations in five languages. Her left hand holds a torch resting on a turtle, symbolizing civilization's dominion over land and sea. Her crown is a miniature model of the library with two angels representing the city and a bear and star for the state of California. Two black marble sphinxes flank her on either side.

The ceilings throughout the Goodhue building were painted by artist Julian Garnsey. The Children's Reading Room that are painted with scenes from Sir Walter Scott's Ivanhoe.

Legacy of learning

When the need for more space was apparent, it was first suggested that the Goodhue building be razed to make room for a new structure. After a 10-year debate and two arson fires, it was decided to restore the Goodhue building and add a 310,000 square-foot addition. Since Architect Norman Peiffer couldn't build any taller than the height of the original Goodue building, he went underground with an additional four stories.

To help fund the expansion, the air space rights were sold to what is now the U.S. Bank Tower enabling it to add more floors to the structure. It is the tallest building west of the Mississippi, but it will lose this distinction in 2017 when the Wilshire Grand Center is completed. Named for former Los Angeles mayor Tom Bradley the new Central Library opened in 1993.

Art and Architecture

According to a mandate administered by the Department of Cultural Affairs in 1989, 1 percent of all capital improvement costs of a building must be allocated to public artwork. To comply, the Tom Bradley Wing linked commissioned art with themes of the original building.

In the atrium three 18-foot chandeliers created by glass artist Therman Statom are suspended from the apex.

When the library digitized its collection, artist David Bunn placed 9,000 catalog cards in the elevator walls, so that as you travel to each floor, you will see cards matching that department's subject. The work is titled A Place for Everything and Everything in Its Place.

Surrounding the 540,000 square-foot library is one of the city's favorite retreats known as the Maguire Gardens, named after Robert Maguire, a real estate developer who helped with the Central Library's resurgence and offers a shady respite for visitors.

If You Go

Location: 630 West Fifth St., Los Angeles

Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday thorugh Thursday, 9 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 1 to 5 p.m. Sunday.

Tours: Free building tours are available daily. Gardens tours are scheduled for Saturdays. Special group tours can also be arranged.

More information: (213) 228-7000; www.lapl.org.

Nearby: The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), the Walt Disney Concert Hall, and the Broad Museum (opening September 20, 2015) are within a short walk as are numerous cafes, restaurants, and The Last Bookstore, California's largest new and used book and record store. It's located at 453 S. Spring St. Find out more at www.lastbookstorela.com.