Market by Moonlight returns to NewBo City Market with vendor staples, new heritages

CEDAR RAPIDS — In a world where food is becoming increasingly inaccessible, NewBo City Market democratizes restaurants for entrepreneurs and budget foodies alike.

This year, patrons of Market After Moonlight had the chance to choose from one of three curated menus produced by multiple vendors: Latin flavors from Central and South America, Asian flavors in a vegan-friendly form, and Heartland Harvest with a melting pot of influences from Italy and Cajun Louisiana.

I chose the first option.

As a fundraiser for the nonprofit, Market by Moonlight’s plates run much higher than the market value of their entrées to support a cause — giving entrepreneurs access to serve their dishes in the market. Here are my thoughts for you to try them on your own time — at a much better price.

Amuse Bouche: Bread by Bread and Buttered Bakery

If you know me, you know I love to crash into a good basket of carbs. I could crash into some Wonderbread with butter spread and be happy.

But this bread basket is worth a note because good bread knows how to set the tone for a meal.

Bread and Buttered, a new bakery rising quickly in NewBo, specializes in sourdough. But here, there were two alternates that shined.

Brazilian cheese bites offered small but chewy pieces packed with more than an average amount of cheddar. I would consider the extra cheese to be a Midwestern way of adding “local flair.”

The brown bread reminded me of stuff at The Cheesecake Factory that everyone eats first — slightly sweet, fluffy and seemingly healthy.

Appetizer: Causa Limeña by Nechus South American Food

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Have you ever enjoyed cold mashed potatoes in an intentional way? Not like the third day of Thanksgiving leftovers, but in a dish that brings a different perspective to good old spuds?

Now, I can say I have.

Beautifully shaped, this presentation transforms humble ingredients into a plating I might expect to see at a high-end restaurant.

Golden mashed potatoes sandwich thinly sliced avocado and gently seasoned shredded chicken, all topped with a tangy sauce. The popular appetizer, whose name references the capital of Peru, is traced back to pre-Columbian gastronomy.

It’s cold, but it’s certainly not lifeless.

A bright creamy sauce with a tangy flavor I can’t quite place is drizzled over velvety, pureed potatoes. It’s something of an aioli with a hint of citrus.

While meat has a tendency to steal the spotlight on most plates, this chicken takes a supporting role and allows the sauce to shine.

It’s a combo most Americans wouldn’t think about, but it’s worth trying.

Main Course: Jerk Chicken by Caribbean Kitchen

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These hearty jerk chicken plates wowed the table with mountains of coconut rice.

The rice is a personal favorite of mine — a side I go out of my way to grab whenever I’m pulling together a meal from various vendors at NewBo City Market. It’s moist and slightly sweet with a pleasing mouthfeel thanks to the black beans.

The coleslaw is very creamy — almost too much. But the unique quality redeeming it as a standout from typical coleslaw is chunks of juicy mango between cabbage and carrots. The cream from the slaw melded well with both the chicken and rice — something you could create yourself with a meal there.

Finally, the jerk chicken gives a warm Caribbean welcome as the host of the plate. While this menu is Central and South American themed, I will give a pass to the Jamaican participant, as the island influences the cuisine in several of its Latin American neighbors.

The skin of the chicken is crispy and dark with a bold flavor that’s peppery, but not immediately spicy.

Inside, the dark meat is moist with a healthy amount of fat imbued. At the heart of it, notes of allspice and star anise (think black licorice) anchor each bite with a lingering aroma that’s warm but not stifling.

In between bites of meat, residual pieces of charred skin add punctuation as authentic as Jamaican Pat’s story.

But the heat does build up after you’re finished. Keep your drink handy.

Dessert: Truffles by Lori Ann’s Candies

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Anyone who has consumed enough sugar in this city knows that Lori Ann’s Candies are the local gold standard for truffles and chocolate.

A variety of truffle flavors — two for each person — delivered a small but concentrated dessert. Mine were rich with flavors of dark chocolate, caramel, cinnamon and apple.

Comments: Features reporter Elijah Decious can be reached at (319) 398-8340 or elijah.decious@thegazette.com.

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