Back to Basics: Czech Apple Bread Pudding

As the crisp air of early fall arrives, so does the peak of apple season, making it the perfect time to embrace one of the most beloved Czech sweet comfort foods: Žemlovka.

At its heart, this delightful apple bread pudding is a rustic and soulful dish built upon two important layers: juicy, spiced apples and bread slices soaked in a rich custard. These elements create the classic taste that has been cherished for generations. However, my recipe elevates the experience by including an optional creamy quark layer for a tangy richness and a light, airy meringue topping for a beautiful final touch.

The true beauty of Žemlovka lies in this versatility. While the full recipe with all its layers creates a decadent dish perfect for a special Sunday lunch, it can easily be adapted to your schedule. If you find yourself in a rush, you can stick to the essential apple and custard-soaked bread layers and still produce a wonderfully satisfying meal. The optional quark and meringue are there for when you have a little extra time to transform a simple classic into an unforgettable culinary masterpiece. Whether you choose the quick and rustic route or the fully-loaded version, you'll be celebrating the best flavors of the season.

It's worth understanding the rich history behind Žemlovka, a sweet baked dish prepared from apples and white bread soaked in sweetened milk and eggs. Its origins trace back to the Austro-Hungarian Empire, where it developed not as a delicacy but as a clever, resourceful meal to use up stale bread rolls (žemle) and seasonal apples — a tradition shared with its nearly identical Austrian cousin, Scheiterhaufen.

While the dish has several regional Czech names like zemlbába, its primary name is directly tied to the Czech language. Following the dissolution of the empire, as new national identities formed, Žemlovka was wholeheartedly embraced in local kitchens and passed down through generations, transforming from a simple, frugal meal into a cherished and nostalgic symbol of the nation's comfort food, which is how it became distinctly Czech.

As was mentioned, this dish is traditionally a fantastic way to use up stale bread rolls (žemle). However, since these specific rolls aren't commonly accessible in the United States, my recipe calls for a readily available and perfect substitute: plain burger buns. Not only do they work wonderfully, but they also bring an additional feature to the meal; the small amount of sugar in most buns nicely complements the other sweet flavors.

Technically speaking, you can also use any white bread that has some fat content, such as Viennese bread, Italian bread or an American-style baguette. You can, of course, use fresh bread, but it's a great opportunity to prepare this with older bread, too. Just make sure that if you use older bread, it isn't so hard that it has lost its ability to absorb the rich custard.

The preparation for this Žemlovka begins by creating the different components before the final assembly. We will start by mixing the ingredients for the optional quark layer, followed by the mandatory parts of the dish: the shredded apple mixture and the rich custard for soaking the bread. The remaining and optional meringue layer is handled differently. To ensure it is fresh and perfectly airy, you will prepare the meringue while the assembled Žemlovka is already halfway through its initial baking time in the oven.

This first optional step creates a rich and tangy filling that elevates the classic Žemlovka into a truly decadent treat. Using a kitchen mixer with a whisk attachment, or simply a hand mixer and a medium mixing bowl, combine the plain quark, confectioners' sugar, egg yolks, vanilla and rum extracts, and the fresh zest of one lemon. Whisk these ingredients on high speed for about three minutes until they are nicely combined. Don't worry if the mixture isn't perfectly creamy; it's completely fine for some small quark curds to remain, which will add to the final texture.

Next, we will prepare the mandatory apple layer, which forms the delicious, fruity heart of the Žemlovka. Begin by washing and shredding five apples on a box grater; there's no need to peel them unless you prefer to but be sure to discard the core. Place the shredded apples into a medium bowl and add the confectioners' sugar, cornstarch and the warm spices of ground cinnamon and nutmeg. Using a silicone spatula, stir everything together thoroughly until the apples are evenly coated and all the ingredients are nicely incorporated. Once mixed, simply set the bowl aside for the upcoming assembly steps.

Please note: If you opt out of preparing the quark layer and plan to use an apple layer as a substitute during assembly, you will need to double all the ingredient amounts for this mixture.

Now it's time to create the simple, rich custard that will infuse the bread layers with flavor and moisture. It's important to note that this is an uncooked custard; it will be used as a soaking liquid for the burger buns in the next steps. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the milk, egg, melted butter, and confectioners' sugar. Using a hand whisk, simply stir these ingredients together vigorously for about 30 seconds until the sugar has dissolved and everything is fully combined into a smooth liquid.

With all the components now ready, it's time to prepare for baking. Go ahead and preheat your oven to 350°F to ensure it's at the proper temperature when you're ready to bake. While the oven is heating, take a semi-soft stick of butter and use it to evenly grease your baking pan, making sure to thoroughly coat the bottom and all of the interior sides. This crucial step will prevent the Žemlovka from sticking and help it develop a rich, golden crust.

Now for the fun part: assembling the Žemlovka. Before you begin, keep a few important tips in mind for the best results. You will be creating three separate bread layers, so be sure to portion your sliced buns accordingly. Just before placing them in the dish, give each slice a quick dip in the custard for about five seconds — any longer and they may become too soggy.

Start by arranging the first layer of custard-dipped bread on the bottom of your greased pan. Next, spread the entire quark mixture evenly over the top, followed by your second layer of dipped bread. On top of that, distribute the entire apple mixture from edge to edge. Finish the main structure with a third and final layer of dipped bread. If you have any custard left over, pour it evenly over the top, and for a final touch, sprinkle the granulated sugar across the entire surface.

Once your Žemlovka is fully assembled, it's ready for its first bake. Place the dish into your preheated 350°F oven and bake it for about 30 minutes. During this time, the custard will set, the apples will soften, and the top will begin to turn a light golden color. Please note, if you are not going to add the optional meringue layer, you should leave the Žemlovka in the oven for an additional 10 minutes, for a total baking time of 40 minutes, to ensure it is cooked through completely.

To add the final, elegant touch of a meringue topping, you'll want to start the preparation when the Žemlovka is about 15 minutes into its initial bake. Begin by placing the room-temperature egg whites and granulated sugar into a kitchen mixer bowl. It's very important that your egg whites are not cold, as chilled whites can take significantly longer to whip. Whisk the mixture on medium speed for 2-3 minutes to get it foamy, then increase the speed to high and continue to whisk until stiff peaks form, which can take anywhere from 4 to 10 minutes. Once the meringue is ready, transfer it to a pastry bag fitted with a tip.

After the Žemlovka has baked for 30 minutes, remove it from the oven and reduce the oven temperature to 300°F. Finally, pipe the meringue decoratively over the entire hot surface — feel free to create any pattern you like, such as little peaks or swirls.

With the meringue beautifully piped, place the Žemlovka back into the 300°F oven for its second and final bake. After an additional 15 minutes, the meringue peaks will be stable and toasted to a lovely golden brown. Remove the finished dish from the oven and let it rest for at least five minutes before serving.

It's important to know that a warm, freshly-baked Žemlovka has a wonderfully rustic quality and will tend to fall apart as you serve it — which is perfectly okay! However, if you desire clean, perfect slices, you will need to let it cool completely on the countertop and then chill it overnight in the refrigerator. Sliced portions can then be easily reheated in the microwave just before serving.

For the perfect presentation, serve a warm slice with a gentle dusting of confectioners' sugar and a complementary scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Tom Slepicka is the founder of www.cookinghub.com, and is a recipe creator, culinary instructor, chef, and a consultant. You can reach him at tom@cookinghub.com.