Cool off in Iowa’s caves this summer

As soon as we entered the dense woods on a torrid, humid day, we were immediately enveloped in cool air. The refreshing breeze wafted upward as we descended into a deep hole. Soon we ducked underground and explored cool darkness punctuated only by lights strung along the cave before us.

We were in Maquoketa Cave State Park in Eastern Iowa on our summer quest to visit Hawkeye State caves. Over the years, we’ve toured caves across the country owned and operated by the National Park service, state park departments and private companies.

We’ve learned there are only two things common to all caves. They are dark and have nearly the same temperature year-round. Caves feel cool during summer’s sweltering heat and warm during January’s chill. Coolness makes a cave visit especially inviting on hot days.

Other than the temperature and darkness, every cave we’ve visited has been dramatically different. Some are immense. Others are small. Some have huge passageways, while others require squirming through tight passages. Intricate formations line the ceilings and floors of many caves, while others are huge, unadorned tunnels in rock. Water drips from the ceiling of some caves, while others are bone dry.

Most caves formed in limestone rock. Slightly acidic rainwater dripping over millennia gradually dissolves the rock, creating cavities that range from tiny to massive. Cave passages can extend for miles or be short tunnels.

“Essentially, all of Iowa’s caves are in limestone karst topography in the eastern part of the state,” said Cheryl Johnson, president of the Iowa Grotto, a group of volunteer cave enthusiasts.

Nationally and in Iowa, caves are either privately owned or on public land. Generally, those open to the public for guided tours are called show caves. Mammoth, Wind, Jewel and Carlsbad, for example, are on land managed by the National Park Service. Commercial caves, like Niagara in Minnesota and Majestic in Alabama, are privately owned but open to the public for tours.

The same holds true in Iowa. Spook and Crystal Lake Caves are owned by families who welcome visitors for touring. Maquoketa Caves in the state park of the same name are owned by the state. Many show caves offer a range of experiences. All normally have a relatively short guided tour that’s popular with visitors. Many offer wild cave tours, which are longer in duration and guide visitors to rarely visited areas. They might require crawling, and people usually use lanterns or flashlights to see.

Not all caves can be visited.

“Many Iowa caves are privately owned who choose to keep them unvisited,” Johnson said. “Members of the Iowa Grotto sometimes can explore them, but we are careful to keep their location confidential. And, there are Iowa caves yet to be discovered.”

Johnson suggests anyone walking in Northeast Iowa’s karst topography keep their eyes open for cavities in rocks. Often, only tiny, natural entrances lead into cavernous and delightful rooms.

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Crystal Lake Cave

Just over an hour drive from Cedar Rapids is Crystal Lake Cave south of Dubuque. Miners searching for lead discovered it in the 19th century. Although no lead was found, it has been thrilling visitors for many years. We checked in with Pablo Ramirez.

“There are 35 steps down to the cave level, then the walk is mostly level on a hard surfaced pathway. Then 35 steps back to the surface,” he said.

Tour guide Cohen led us through this fascinating Iowa cave and explained how the stalactites, stalagmites and columns form: erosion over eons of time by slightly acidic water. He connected this geology with our everyday lives. Got a stomach ache? Reach for your Tums – calcium carbonate. On one stop, he pointed a black light into the rock, revealing spectacular fluorescent colors. The cave’s named for an underground lake — really more like a large pool — of clear, cool water. Our tour took about 40 minutes. The year-round air temperature is 52 degrees. Bring a jacket.

Spook Cave

Spook is likely Iowa’s best known private cave. Discovered in 1953, it’s been open to the public since 1955. The cave and campground were purchased by the Bries Family about six years ago.

“We put lots of effort into upgrading our campground and cabins,” said Tabbi Bries.

It is the only cave we’ve visited that doesn’t involve walking through passageways. Visitors ride in stable aluminum boats. Our guide, Kylee, maneuvered us through twisting passages pulled along by a silent electric boat motor. In certain palces, we needed to duck to fit under rocks, but tight spots opened to rooms with vaulted ceilings. The cave has some formations, but they are sparse. Because touring is by boat, it’s a cave that people with walking challenges can enjoy.

Our guide helped us into the boat and gave us each soft cushions to sit on. We chose to sit on the boat’s floor. Had we sat on its raised seats, we would have had to bend over to transit low ceiling areas. Kylee regaled us with both scientific information and also funny stories. Keeping our hands inside the boat, we warily watch for the “cave alligator” and marveled how “intact the remains of a long-dead” explorer were.

Spook Cave, like some other commercial caves, has a few schmaltzy stories, but mostly our guide emphasized the history, natural beauty and geology of the cave. It is an in and out cave, meaning that the guide turns the boat around while deep underground to head back toward the opening. The subterranean temperature is 47 degrees. That’s delightful on a summer day. It is open for tours only during the warm months.

Spook Cave is about 90 miles northeast of Cedar Rapids and just this side of McGregor. It’s more than a cave. Rental cabins and campsites are near Bloody Run, a clear water trout stream. A few sites are absolutely unique, as they feature a waterfall just past a camping area. Trout fishing and hiking add to the outdoor appeal of surface activities. Over many years, we’ve camped in dozens of campgrounds and found Spook Cave facilities among the cleanest and most pleasant we’ve seen.

Public Caves

Maquoketa Cave State Park

Probably Iowa’s most famous caves are in Maquoketa Caves State Park near the town of the same name. The park features several caves, including the massive 1,100-foot-long Dancehall Cave. They’re connected by a walkway that passes a natural bridge and balanced rock. The main cave is lit, but having a flashlight makes viewing details easier. Some stairway climbing is necessary, but once down to the walkway, it’s fairly level. The caves are big but not ornate. Admission is free.

Horsethief Cave in Wapsipinicon State Park is smaller but free and close to Cedar Rapids in Anamosa.

The Decorah Ice Cave is unique. Named for ice that builds all winter and spring, it’s located above the Upper Iowa River in Decorah.

Some of our favorite caves are close by in neighboring Minnesota and Wisconsin. Niagara Cave (niagaracave.org) near Harmony, Minnesota, is a privately owned show cave featuring an underground river and waterfall. Close by is Mystery Cave State Park near Spring Valley. From Cedar Rapids to Cave of the Mounds, Wisconsin is an easy drive. (caveofthemounds.com)

National Park Caves

When traveling, we often seek spectacular caves managed by The National Park Service. Our favorites include Mammoth in Kentucky, Wind and Jewell in South Dakota, Carlsbad in New Mexico and Lehman in Nevada.

Claustrophobia

Although most people are fascinated by dipping underground and experiencing the fascinating world of cool darkness, some fear claustrophobia. Rich is leery of worming his way through passages so tight there’s no room to turn around. Marion, with her smaller frame, likes the challenge and has led middle schoolers through tight caves.

However, all of Iowa’s show caves bring people through larger passageways that tend to mute claustrophobia.

More about caves

Fifty of Iowa’s hundreds of caves are detailed in the book “Iowa Underground: A Guide to the State’s Subterranean Treasures” by Greg Brick. It’s available from Amazon and at some book stores.

Since 1941, the National Speleological Society (caves.org) has been at the forefront of cave science, conservation and exploration. State chapters are called “grottos.” The Iowa Grotto is based in Decorah. Its website can be accessed through the National Speleological Society. Anyone with a serious cave should consider joining.

Dipping down into a cave’s coolness is an outstanding summer activity, but a visit is fun anytime of the year.