Graceland: A look at the man behind the rock ‘n’ roll legend

When I visited Graceland, I expected rhinestones and shag carpet. I didn’t expect to be emotionally moved.

Graceland, Elvis Presley’s Memphis estate, is one of the most visited private homes in the United States, second only to the White House. Since opening to the public in 1982, it’s drawn millions of fans from around the world. Despite its flashy décor and pop-culture fame, Graceland is more than a quirky stop for Elvis fans. It offers a surprisingly emotional look at the man behind the legend, as well as a snapshot of mid-century Americana.

Graceland, which was built in 1939 in Colonial Revival style, was purchased by Elvis in 1957 when he was just 22 years old. By then, he was already a national sensation, and the estate quickly became a refuge from the growing pressure of his fame. He lived there for two decades, hosting family, friends and late-night jam sessions.

Today, the mansion anchors a complex that also includes museums, restaurants and two of his private jets, transforming the property into a full-scale tourist destination that draws more than 600,000 visitors a year. Graceland also hosts concerts, themed exhibits and annual tributes that include Elvis Week (which in 2025 will be held Aug. 8-16).

My tour began in the mansion itself, which remains much as it was during Elvis’s life. While it’s not the largest or flashiest celebrity home by today’s standards, it has personality to spare. The living room, for example, features a 15-foot white couch, mirrored coffee table, and stained-glass peacocks flanking the doorway. The TV room has three television sets mounted side by side so Elvis could watch all the networks at once. The most famous room of all — the Jungle Room — is a Polynesian-inspired retreat outfitted with green shag carpet on the floor and ceiling, carved wood furniture, and a built-in waterfall.

As I toured the house, I found myself increasingly wrapped up in the story of Elvis’s private life. Graceland uses iPads and headphones for self-guided tours, which provide narration, archival images and options that allow you to learn more about each room. I hadn’t fully appreciated how versatile Elvis was as an artist — or how young. He recorded his first song at 18, and by 23 he was already a global star. And by 42, he was gone.

An adjacent museum gives more insights into Elvis’s life and career. It begins with displays on his childhood growing up in Tupelo, Mississippi, with parents who struggled to put food on the table. The passionate music of their Pentecostal church left a deep impression on young Elvis. While the Blues later shaped his signature musical style, gospel was his first love. Tellingly, all three of his Grammy awards were for gospel recordings, not rock n’ roll.

I next wandered through a gallery of Elvis’s concert costumes, including the legendary jumpsuits from his Vegas years, and stood before a wall lined with gold and platinum records. Home movie clips showed quiet moments with his wife Priscilla and their daughter, Lisa Marie. Most surprising was a display of books from his personal library, with titles ranging from Christianity and Buddhism to UFOs.

Lisa Marie offered a revealing glimpse into her father’s inner life, recalling how he always kept stacks of books next to his bed. “He read all the time ... always of a spiritual nature,” she said. For all his fame, Elvis was a pilgrim of sorts, searching for meaning beyond the spotlights.

While the mansion and museum explore Elvis’s personal life, the large complex across the street focuses on his global fame. It includes a car museum, information on his time in the U.S. Army, and exhibits dedicated to his movies, music and charitable work. His iconic pink Cadillac is here, along with a 1975 Ferrari Dino, a 1956 Cadillac Eldorado convertible and several Harley-Davidson motorcycles. His two private jets (one with gold-plated seatbelt buckles and a full bed) are parked nearby.

  Buy Photo

As I made my way through the Graceland complex, I was struck by the epic scale of Elvis’s short-but-eventful life. In just 42 years, Elvis made more than 30 films, performed over 1,600 live shows and built a fan base that spanned the globe. The tour gave me a sense for his charisma, kindness and crowd-pleasing charm, but also the fatigue, the pressure and the toll of his relentless fame.

Elvis’s fans are still showing up. At Graceland, I saw families with young kids, older couples, groups of 20-somethings and international visitors speaking French, German and Japanese. Some wore Elvis T-shirts; most moved slowly, taking their time in each room. For many, it seemed to be more than a tourist stop — perhaps a chance to connect with their own past, or simply a way to enter a story that is deeply intertwined with American culture.

For me, the most moving part of the tour was the Meditation Garden, Elvis’s final resting place. He is buried there alongside his parents, grandmother and a memorial to his stillborn twin brother. The space is quiet and modest, with flowers, fountains and a low stone wall that curves around the graves. After all the flash and fame on display, this part of Graceland tells a more personal story, one that feels unexpectedly tender.

Before going to Graceland, I thought I had a pretty clear picture of Elvis, from his early stardom to Vegas glitz. But being there added layers I didn’t expect. Graceland is not just a museum about a musician: it’s a window into a unique American life and a reflection of the era that shaped it.