Taste of the tropics: Africa and the Caribbean

By Susan M. Selasky

Detroit Free Press

You don't have to travel far to get a taste of the tropics.

You can savor the flavors at home with some cool dishes indigenous to those regions.

Take Jamaica, for example. When it comes to Jamaican cuisine, many people think of jerk - a method of cooking foods over an open fire or on a grill. There also are jerk seasonings.

Vernette Byron, 63, of Detroit says any type of jerk dish would be an excellent example of Jamaican cuisine. Byron moved to Detroit from Jamaica more than 35 years ago and cooks the Jamaican way on a daily basis.

“Jerk is a special way of seasoning chicken, pork and fish,” says Byron. The main ingredients are onions, garlic, Scotch bonnet peppers, ground pimento seeds and thyme.

Byron explains that what we know as allspice here is called pimento in Jamaica. Pimento is the fruit of the pimento tree and represents true Jamaican flavor. Jamaican allspice will be labeled as such and is more “pungent than allspice berries grown elsewhere,” according to “Jerk from Jamaica: Barbecue Caribbean Style” by Helen Willinsky (Ten Speed Press, $18.95).

2 CULTURES SHARE INGREDIENTS

If you plan to cook some authentic Caribbean or African dishes, here's a list of some typical ingredients used in both cuisines. Many major grocery stores have a selection of common fruits found in Caribbean and African dishes such as avocados, papaya, mango and plantains.

• Allspice: Look for ground allspice that specifies “Jamaican allspice.” This spice comes from Jamaican allspice berries, which have a higher oil content that gives the spice its flavor.
• Callaloo: This green leaf comes from the taro root plant native to the tropics and is cooked like collards or spinach. Callaloo is also the name of a Caribbean dish.
• Plantain: Popular in African and Latin American countries, plantains are big, firm bananas that are used for cooking. Generally not eaten raw because of their bitterness, plantains become sweet when cooked. They cost more, about 89 cents a pound, than common bananas.
• Gungo peas or pigeon peas: These are legumes about the size of green peas and are grayish in color. Cook these as you would dried beans. Look for them dried, fresh and frozen.
• Yams: These are long tubers with a rough brown outer skin and a creamy white hard center. One can weigh several pounds.
• Scotch bonnet and habanero peppers: These are known to be the hottest chile peppers around. They are small and irregularly shaped and come in green, red and yellow. They are usually about 1 1/2-inches long and about 1 inch in diameter. They pack a punch especially if you chop them with their ribs and seeds.

Sources: Free Press research, “Jerk from Jamaica: Barbecue Caribbean Style” by Helen Willinsky (Ten Speed Press, $18.95) and “Yolele! Recipes from the Heart of Senegal” by Pierre Thiam (Lake Isle Press, $21.95)

AVOCADO, MANGO AND PAPAYA SALAD

Serves: 6 / Preparation time: 20 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes (plus marinating time)

VINAIGRETTE

2 tablespoons fresh lime juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/3 cup peanut oil

1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed, minced

1 cup parsley leaves, chopped

SALAD

2 medium ripe mangos

1/2 papaya, peeled, seeds removed

2 ripe avocados

1 cup diced tomatoes

Make the vinaigrette: In a glass measuring cup or small bowl, whisk together the lime juice, salt, pepper and oil. Stir in the jalapeno and parsley; set aside.

Peel and pit the mangos, then slice them lengthwise about 1/8-inch thick. Place them in a bowl and pour about 2 tablespoons of the vinaigrette over them. Let marinate for 30 minutes to 1 hour in the refrigerator.

Just before serving, slice the papaya into 1/8-inch slices. Cut each avocado in half, remove the pit, peel and cut the avocado in 1/8-inch thick slices.

On a serving plate (or individual plates) arrange and fan out the mango, papaya and avocado slices.

Reserve 2 tablespoons of the dressing and pour the remaining over the fruits. Toss the reserved 2 tablespoons of the dressing with the diced tomatoes and place them in the center of the serving plate.

Adapted from “Yolele! Recipes from the Heart of Senegal” by Pierre Thiam (Lake Isle Press, $21.95).

266 calories (71 percent from fat ), 21 grams fat (3 grams sat. fat ), 21 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams protein, 110 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 6 grams fiber.

TOSTONES (TWICE-FRIED PLANTAINS)

Serves: 4 (generously) / Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

Oil for frying, about 1 1/2 cups or enough to cover the bottom of the pan plus a little more

2 green plantains

Salt to taste

Mojito sauce for serving, optional

In a large skillet, heat the oil until it's shimmering. Meanwhile, peel the green plantains and then cut them into 3/4-inch slices.

Fry the slices in the hot oil, about 2 minutes on each side. They should be a light golden color and semi-soft.

Remove the plantain slices with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

Keep the oil hot.

When the plantain slices are cool enough to handle (about 1 minute), smash them into flat rounds.

Fry the rounds in the hot oil for 3 minutes. They will turn crisp and golden brown.

Remove the tostones with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt to taste. Serve with the Mojito sauce.

Adapted from www.about.com.

264 calories (61 percent from fat), 18 grams fat (2 grams sat. fat), 29 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 294 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 2 grams fiber.

JERK CHICKEN

Serves: 8/ Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes (plus marinating time)

This marinade makes enough for about 4 pounds of poultry, beef or pork. For more heat in this marinade, add some hot red pepper sauce. For less heat, remove the seeds and ribs of the chile before processing it.

JERK MARINADE

1 onion, peeled

4 green onions (white and green part), washed

1 habanero, jalapeno or Serrano chile, stemmed

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried

1 teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon ground Jamaican allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons reduced sodium soy sauce

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 tablespoon cider or white vinegar

CHICKEN

4 pounds chicken breast with skin and bone (or mix of chicken pieces)

Jerk seasoning, optional, see note

Roughly chop the onion, green onion and habanero and place in a blender or food processor. Add the remaining marinade ingredients and process until smooth.

Debone the chicken if desired. Place the chicken in a plastic sealable bag and pour the marinade over. Press the outside of the bag to work the marinade into the chicken. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.

Preheat the grill to medium-high heat. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator while the grill is preheating. When the grill is hot place the chicken pieces on the grill, skin side down. Sprinkle the flesh side with a bit of jerk seasoning if you like.

Grill about 10 minutes (for boneless) until the skin is nicely browned and the chicken easily releases from the grill. Turn and sprinkle the skin side with a bit of jerk seasoning if you like and continue cooking until the chicken is cooked through.

Remove from the grill and serve.

Cook's note: For a basic jerk seasoning, combine 1 tablespoon onion flakes, 1 tablespoon onion or garlic powder, 2 teaspoons dried thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon ground Jamaican allspice, 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg and cinnamon, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon ground black pepper, 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoons dried chives or green onions.

Adapted from “Jerk from Jamaica: Barbecue Caribbean Style” by Helen Willinsky (Ten Speed Press, $18.95).

Analysis based on a 5-ounce cooked chicken breast with skin.

311 calories (37 percent from fat ), 13 grams fat (3 grams sat. fat ), 4 grams carbohydrates, 42 grams protein, 592 mg sodium, 118 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.

JOLLOF RICE

Serves: 6 / Preparation time: 20 minutes / Total time: 50 minutes

There are plenty of variations of jollof rice in west Africa. You can use a variety of vegetables in it and make it with cooked chicken, meat or fish.

3 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil or use a ground nut oil

2 cloves garlic, peeled, minced

1 medium onion, peeled, chopped

1 medium red or green pepper, chopped

1 habanero pepper, stemmed, seeded if desired

2 ripe tomatoes, seeded and chopped

1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 teaspoon ground ginger, optional

1 cup long-grain white rice

1 1/2 cups water or chicken broth

1/2 cup frozen peas

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, heat the oil. Add the garlic and saute about 1 minute. Add the onion, pepper and habanero. Saute about 3-5 minutes or until just beginning to become tender. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, thyme and ginger; cook 1 minute. Stir in the rice and water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer until rice is cooked and all the liquid is absorbed; about 20 minutes. The mixture should be somewhat dry. Stir in the peas and cook 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper before serving.

From Susan M. Selasky for the Free Press Test Kitchen.

230 calories (31 percent from fat ), 8 grams fat (1 gram sat. fat ), 37 grams carbohydrates, 5 grams protein, 144 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 grams fiber.

GRILLED SHRIMP WITH MOJITO DIPPING SAUCE

Serves: 4 / Preparation time: 20 minutes

Total time: 45 minutes

Use this sauce as a dipping sauce for grilled shrimp or twice-fried plantains.

SAUCE

1/2 red bell pepper

1/2 green bell pepper

5 garlic cloves, peeled

2 shallots, peeled or 1/2 small red onion

1 medium ripe tomato, seeded

1 teaspoon dried oregano

3/4 cup cilantro leaves

1/4 cup tomato paste

2 tablespoons olive oil or more as needed

1 to 2 tablespoons lime juice

Salt and pepper to taste

SHRIMP

1 pound jumbo shrimp, peeled, deveined

2 tablespoons olive oil

Favorite jerk seasoning

Roughly chop the bell peppers, garlic and shallots. Place in a food processor or blender. Pulse a few times. Add the tomato, oregano and cilantro and process to a smooth puree. Add the tomato paste, olive oil and lime juice. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside while preparing the shrimp.

Or transfer the sauce to a jar with a tight-fitting lid. Refrigerated, it will keep for 1 week.

Preheat the grill or broiler. Toss the shrimp with the olive oil and sprinkle with jerk seasoning or favorite seasoning. Grill or broil the shrimp until it is opaque and cooked through.

Serve the shrimp with the Mojito sauce.

Adapted from “The Caribbean Pantry Cookbook” by Steven Raichlen (Artisan, $25).

230 calories (35 percent from fat ), 9 grams fat (1 gram sat. fat ), 13 grams carbohydrates, 25 grams protein, 189 mg sodium, 170 mg cholesterol, 3 grams fiber.

SOFRITO

Makes: 3 1/2 cups / Preparation time: 15 minutes

Total time: 25 minutes

Sofrito is a mainstay in some Caribbean dishes and used as a starter, similar to a mirepoix, in soups, stews and rice dishes. This recipe makes a good amount; you can freeze the sofrito in portions you will use or halve the recipe.

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

3/4 cup diced onions

1 medium red bell pepper, diced medium

1 medium green bell pepper, diced medium

1 can (6 ounces) tomato paste

1 1/2 cups water

1 tablespoon favorite red pepper sauce

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Salt and pepper to taste

1 large ripe tomato, washed, seeded, diced

1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves

In a medium saucepan, heat the oil. Add the garlic and saute about 1 minute. Add the onions and peppers. Saute until the vegetables lose their raw appearance. Add tomato paste, water, red pepper sauce, cumin, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 minutes, then remove from the heat.

Cool slightly and then puree the mixture roughly using a blender or food processor. Fold in the diced tomato and cilantro. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Use as a topping for grilled chicken or fish or as a starter for soups and stews.

Adapted from “Caribbean Light” by Donna Shields (Doubleday, $24.95).

Analysis per 2 tablespoons.

27 calories (66 percent from fat), 2 grams fat (0 grams sat. fat), 3 grams carbohydrates, 1 gram protein, 29 mg sodium, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 gram fiber.