Back to Basics: Hungry for something hearty?

As the weather turns colder, the trees become a vibrant collection of colors and the days get shorter, one of the most satisfying ways to feel cozy and warm is to fill your stomach with a hearty and flavorful meal. A meal that fits this description perfectly is Szegedin goulash.

I have tried and enjoyed various versions of goulash from many different countries but have found this one to be especially delicious in how it perfectly combines pork, sauerkraut, and cream. Altogether, this goulash more than delivers in providing both a decadent and a well-balanced flavor all wrapped together in a single meal.

This recipe starts with meat. It is best to select pork shoulder since it has the perfect ratio of meat and fat for this meal. Another great option is to use pork butt. Either way, select a cut without the bone, and if the bone is present, remove it. After a short rinse to remove the surface bacteria, cut the meat into dices of about 1 inch and place on a plate. Generously salt and pepper and let sit at room temperature until needed for the next step. During this time, the meat can partially adjust to your room temperature to better provide you with more tender results.

To start cooking the goulash, saute finely chopped onion on medium-high heat until glossy, which usually takes about 3 minutes. For this step, you are going to also need some frying oil with a high smoke point (oil suitable for cooking, such as avocado oil, canola oil, sunflower oil). If you want to go back to basics, instead of using oil, use pork lard. Using lard is unnecessary but will provide some benefits if you do so. Apart from its excellent performance (lard has a very high smoke point, which makes it suitable for cooking), it also will gently enhance the flavor of your goulash. It is cost-effective, and you can buy it at any good butcher store.

When the onion gets a nice translucent color, add sauerkraut. Before you do so, drain and dispose of the liquid. Saute the onion with sauerkraut for a short time to get the best flavor from the sauerkraut.

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The next step is to add the hero to all goulashes; paprika. Dust the sauerkraut and onion with a generous portion of paprika and then saute shortly until the paprika nicely covers both ingredients.

Then add the cubed pork shoulder and saute until the meat gets a nice sear (a nice surface color). After you complete this step, the meat will have a nice and appetizing surface color but will still be raw in the center. When you’ve completed your goulash, this technique will provide you with the best of both worlds: the tenderness of sauteed meat and the perfect incorporation of the goulash stew flavors.

The next step is to dust the meat and other ingredients with all-purpose flour, which will at first just coat the meat and sauerkraut, but later, as it stews, will start to gradually thicken the goulash. After dusting with flour, thoroughly stir and then add the rest of ingredients for stewing. Work fast to prevent burning, and if you must, take the pot from the stove until you have added all stewing ingredients.

To stew the goulash, add beef broth, bay leaves, caraway seeds and garlic. Stir, cover with a lid, and bring to a light simmer (about 195 degrees) with occasional stirring. Then lower the heat to medium and cook for about 60 minutes with occasional stirring with the lid on. During this time, the goulash will significantly thicken, and the meat will become nicely tender. If the liquid evaporates too much during stewing, add some more water.

To finalize the goulash, first remove and dispose of the bay leaves. Then add heavy cream, salt, and pepper and thoroughly stir. Cook without a lid with occasional stirring until all ingredients are thoroughly combined, this usually takes about five minutes. Do not forget to taste it and add more salt and pepper if needed. At this point, your goulash should have a nice thick consistency, but since this is a European meal, do not expect it to be too thick. If you prefer a thicker goulash, simply extend the cooking time.

This meal can be served with boiled potatoes, pasta, or bread dumplings. The latter is especially delicious and, in my opinion, is the best fit. Dumplings nicely absorb sauce, so if you pair the goulash with dumplings, you’ll get the most out of the European-style stew.

This meal originated in Hungary in the 19th century, and now is a popular dish outside its Hungarian borders, especially in central Europe. I was born in the Czech Republic, and until I started culinary school and learned more about food, I was certain that Szegedin goulash was a traditional Czech meal since it was so universally served in my home country. And now, with this recipe, you can see why a meal that has existed for so long still is so beloved and so often served.

Tom Slepicka is the founder of www.cookinghub.com, and is a recipe creator, culinary instructor, chef, and a consultant. You can reach him at tom@cookinghub.com.