The Alaska Railroad turns 100

As someone who loves both train rides and Alaska, the chance to travel on the state’s legendary railway was a thrill. An added bonus was being part of the Alaska Railroad’s centennial year, when the importance of the train to the Frontier State is being recognized with a variety of events and commemorations.

The day before my trip I toured an exhibit on the railroad’s centennial at the Anchorage Museum. Archival photos and vintage artifacts tell the story of the train’s origin, which was largely driven by mining, timber and military interests. In 1914 President Woodrow Wilson formed a commission to determine the best route for the railway, and construction began the following year. For eight years laborers worked on segments of the line, using equipment and materials that had been shipped north after the construction of the Panama Canal as well as resources from the region. On July 15, 1923, the route was finally completed when President Warren Harding drove a golden spike into a segment of track near the town of Nenana.

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The railroad has been an essential part of Alaska ever since, in part because only 20 percent of the state’s roads are paved. As a result, much of the state depends upon a mixture of air, ferry and rail traffic.

Today the Alaska Railroad (which was purchased by the state from the federal government in 1985) has 656 miles of track. The route stretches from the ice-free port of Seward north to the interior city of Fairbanks. In addition to transporting about a half-million passengers each year, it hauls many tons of freight, from groceries and mining equipment to construction materials.

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After learning about the railroad’s history, I was primed to travel on it myself on a trip from Anchorage to Fairbanks. At 8 a.m. the Anchorage depot was buzzing with excited conversations. Clearly I wasn’t the only person who was looking forward to taking one of the most scenic train rides in the world.

As I settled into my seat, I looked with interest at the other passengers in my rail car. They included a family with young children, several older couples, a student tour group, and a number of backpackers with heavy boots. A short time later we were on our way with a blast of the train’s whistle.

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Then a woman’s voice came over the loudspeaker. “Welcome aboard!” she said. “As we travel north we’re going to be giving information about the places we’re going through, but you’ll also have plenty of time to just sit back and enjoy the ride. And keep your eyes peeled for animals — we often spot moose or caribou from the train.”

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I was pleased to discover that even though I hadn’t purchased the more expensive ticket that guaranteed a seat in a deluxe dome car with 360-degree views, there were open spots in a slightly less luxurious dome car just a short walk from my seat.

Each bend in the track brought another vista to savor. North of Anchorage we passed through the towns of Eklutna and Wasilla, but after that the signs of human habitation became much sparser. Over the next hours, the magnificent expanse of Alaska unrolled before us, from snow-capped mountains and swift rivers to dense forests and backcountry dominated by scrubby black spruce trees. The passing scenery gave me a visceral sense for just how large and wild Alaska is.

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As we rode, I appreciated the occasional information provided over the loudspeaker. One interesting tidbit was that the Alaska Railroad is the only one in the country that provides whistle-stop service, meaning that on portions of the route it can be flagged down by those wanting a ride. For many people living in the back country, the Alaska Railroad is a lifeline.

At Hurricane Gulch we passed over a trestle that gave us views of a creek nearly 300 feet below. Then came Summit, which at 2,363 elevation was the highest point on our journey.

In late afternoon, the highlight of the trip came as we approached Denali National Park, which protects 6 million acres of wilderness. Unfortunately, Denali’s summit was wreathed in clouds — an occurrence so common that it’s estimated that just 30 percent of park visitors get the chance to see it. Thankfully, the rest of the Alaska Range is so beautiful that it nearly made up for missing the highest mountain in North America.

Many of my fellow passengers got off at the Denali stop, where buses were waiting to take them to lodging places. A popular travel option is to stay overnight near the park and then take the train to Fairbanks the next day.

Meanwhile, those of us left on the train continued our journey. After leaving the park we traveled through the beautiful Nenana River canyon and then into more level country. The landscape was noticeably dryer because it’s in the rain shadow of the Alaska Range. Lulled by the gentle rocking of the train, the rest of the trip passed quickly. While sightings of moose and caribou eluded me, the day had been so spectacular that I couldn’t complain.

At 8 p.m. we pulled into Fairbanks depot. It would still be hours before the sun set, but I was pleasantly weary. Tomorrow I’d explore the state’s second-largest city, but for today Alaska had given me enough gifts. I stepped off the train, feeling grateful for an unforgettable day on one of the world’s great railroads.

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