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Pastry master, former ‘Iron Chef’ cast member folds experience into his first Coralville cafe, deli and bakery

Three-in-one concept delivers niche novelties, sublime simplicities

Fresh bread and deli options await customers on Friday, June 30, 2023, at Barrett's Quality Eats in Coralville, Iowa. (Geoff Stellfox/The Gazette)
Fresh bread and deli options await customers on Friday, June 30, 2023, at Barrett's Quality Eats in Coralville, Iowa. (Geoff Stellfox/The Gazette)

CORALVILLE — If you’ve ever wondered how TV chefs or fine dining pastry masters eat at home, you’re in luck. At Chef Cory Barrett’s first restaurant, “only the best” comes to life in surprising new ways.

At Barrett’s casual three-in-one concept, opened July 5, you won’t find the fine dining cliches like culinary foams, explanations from servers that sound like a foreign language, or entrees that vaporize your savings with little to show for the stomach.

Despite an impressive resume earned under renowned chefs, top national awards and reels of appearance on widely watched shows, Chef Barrett didn’t want to open the type of restaurant most might visit once a year.

He wanted to serve the things he makes at home for his family — food that has stood the test of time.

“If you went to a chef’s house for a simple lunch, this is probably what would be served,” Barrett said. “It’s food we like to eat every single day.”

If you go

What: Barrett’s Quality Eats

Where: 3242 Crosspark Rd., Coralville

Hours: 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday; 7 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday

Phone: (319) 626-2227

Website: barrettsallday.com

Details: A full line of scratch-made pastries, desserts, New York-style bagels and a deli case are served alongside a full breakfast menu, sandwiches, soups, salads and rotisserie chicken. Wash it down with custom Stone Bru coffee and fresh juices or a selection of beer, wine and cocktails.

Pastries start at $4; deli case and sandwich selections range from $7 to $17. Casual counter service with ample indoor and patio seating.

Iowa simplicity

The cafe, bakery and deli distills decades of experience for Barrett, 43, into a concept with a heaping helping of an element that is quintessential Iowa.

The restaurant, despite being his biggest venture to date, has a humble appeal that doesn’t make anyone feel out of place.

“I’ve put a lot of funky flavors together over the years — the whole kit and caboodle,” Barrett said. “But having a croissant with coffee in the morning is pretty amazing. It’s things people really go for, as long as they’re prepared well.”

Despite three James Beard Award semifinalist nods, 17 episodes as a sous chef on “Iron Chef,” and a 2019 win on the Food Network’s “Spring Baking Championship,” Barrett’s Quality Eats offers a cross between high quality and convenience that reaches the crowd shopping for groceries at the Hy-Vee across the street.

Eye-popping and adventurous desserts

A full line of pastries and desserts — Barrett’s specialty honed under the acclaimed Lola, Chef Michael Symon’s former flagship restaurant in Cleveland, Ohio — commands the craft in ways unmatched by the average cafe and bakery. A full line of croissant options, cream puffs and tarts adorn cases alongside well-done simplicities like brownies, banana bread and Irish tea cake.

If you have a sweet tooth, take a gander at the Ecuadorian Chocolate Mousse Cake. Chocolate Peanut Butter Tortes, fruit tarts and mousse cakes are available for one or in multiples to share.

If you have an adventurous sweet tooth, adventurous and eye-popping options await behind the glass.

Kalamata olive and white chocolate chip cookies, a riff off a dessert Barrett did for “Iron Chef America,” delivers moist bites that are surprisingly balanced between salty and sweet.

If you want to try the only deep-dish style cinnamon rolls in the Corridor, arrive early — they’re first come, first served on weekends only.

Breakfast and lunch

In a space that looks reminiscent of a Midcentury Modern New York delicatessen, breakfast and New York-style bagels are served until 11 a.m.

The restaurant’s namesake signature breakfast sandwich features egg, aioli, and white cheddar on brioche rolls, croissants or bagels. Smoked salmon lox are available with veggie plates or on grilled sourdough toast.

Patrons sample the coffee bar on Friday, June 30, 2023, at Barrett's Quality Eats in North Liberty, Iowa. (Geoff Stellfox/The Gazette)
Patrons sample the coffee bar on Friday, June 30, 2023, at Barrett's Quality Eats in North Liberty, Iowa. (Geoff Stellfox/The Gazette)

Bacon and onion savory oats, a family favorite with Barrett’s wife and children, offers a “breakfast risotto.” Ranchero burritos featuring avocado and roasted potatoes are available with braised beef.

Lunch shifts gears with familiar favorites elevated by quality ingredients.

“Iowans just love quality things. That’s where the name started,” Barrett explained. “Simple quality is a highly respected thing — that was a big driving point for the restaurant.”

Diners can order a fresh rotisserie chicken cut to size with whole, quarter or half options and optional sides like Yukon Gold potatoes, kale salad and salsa verde. Or simply order it on a French roll sandwich with feta mayonnaise and herbs.

A beef pot roast sandwich brings a hearty Midwestern meat to match the potatoes. Classics deliver comfort through chicken salad sandwiches, tuna salad sandwiches or ham and cheese.

Inspiration

With experience working in restaurants from coast to coast, the Ohio native drew inspiration from locations like Swedish Hill Bakery in Austin, Texas; Gjusta Bakery in Los Angeles; and Daily Provisions in New York City.

As he moved his family to the Corridor from Kalamazoo, Mich., partners like Chef Ben Smith at Big Grove Brewery played a heavy hand in making the concept Iowan.

The menu has proved that eating wholesome food is not mutually exclusive to being accessible or convenient. With a bright and inviting space, flexibility allows diners to linger at their leisure or grab a bite to go.

“It’s wholesome, delicious, but also as fast as we can provide it without dumbing down the product,” Barrett said. “All those possibilities are what people will like most.”

Comments: (319) 398-8340; elijah.decious@thegazette.com

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