Flight plan

By Cindy Hadish/The Gazette

HASTINGS, NEB. - A weekend road trip to Nebraska gave me insight into the phrase, “wild goose chase.”

“Stalking” might be a more apt description of the behavior that occurs during this annual migration, and while we did see the occasional goose, the main attractions here were cranes.

An estimated 450,000 sandhill cranes, along with a handful of endangered whooping cranes, stop in south-central Nebraska every spring on their way north to breeding grounds in Alaska and Siberia.

The graceful gray waterfowl, with long necks, red foreheads and crowns, converge en masse in the Platte River Valley to rest and feed.

Thousands of visitors flock to the area to view the spectacle each spring.

Iowa has a growing number of sandhill cranes, including several that live near Chelsea, but the attraction in our neighboring state is the massive numbers.

I heard about the migration years ago while working in Nebraska, but never took the time to drive two hours to the west to witness it.

From Eastern Iowa, it's a bit of a drive - more than 800 miles, round trip - but easy enough to accomplish one-way in one day.

Daniel Glomski, program manager at the Nebraska Nature & Visitor Center near Grand Island, told me that the cranes generally stay in the area into early April.

That means, theoretically, you could see this impressive sight for another few weeks.

Glomski added, however, that this season has been “wonky,” weather-wise and crane-wise.

“Everything is upside-down this year,” he says.

An estimated 5,000 cranes overwintered along the Platte, which is unprecedented, Glomski said. Above-average temperatures also could mean that the cranes will fly north sooner, so it might be best to plan for next year when cranes return in late February.

We watched videos of past migrations in which spectators, dressed in warm winter gear, trudged through snow to observe the birds. With hours spent outdoors, I was grateful for the record warmth this March. The wind was strong, but daily temperatures in the 70s made the trip enjoyable.

I consider myself a bird admirer, not a bird watcher, so I consulted Gazette resident expert, Diana Pesek, about tips for viewing.

She advised traveling the gravel roads during the day to view cranes feeding in cornfields. The birds are easy to see anywhere south of Interstate 80 in the area where we spent time from Kearney to Grand Island.

Be prepared for the seasonal uptick in hotel prices and book in advance; several places were full when I checked in February. We found a motel in nearby Hastings - the birthplace of Kool-Aid and home to a well-preserved train depot - and close enough to the nature attractions.

Pesek also said to watch for whooping cranes, whose numbers are tiny compared to the sandhill cranes, but stand out in the crowd with their white feathers.

Whooping cranes are federally protected, so viewers need to keep their distance. Overzealous photographers can create issues.

At dawn and near sunset, the cranes move to the Platte River to spend the night. Its shallow waters and sandbars are a perfect spot for waterfowl to rest and find refuge from predators, but the main event happens when the sandhill cranes converge on the river.

Their soft, throaty calls join forces as the sun dips to the horizon and the birds circle above for a spot to land.

Bird-watching is not for the lazy. We made it to the river at dusk, but the spectacle at dawn, when the cranes leave the river, is something we missed.

Patience helps, too.

During conversations with other crane-viewers, I heard descriptions of the cranes' elaborate dances - bowing, jumping and wing-flapping - that only happens when they are undisturbed.

To do this, you either must find a farmer willing to let you into their cornfield - this part of Nebraska has narrow shoulders so there are few places to watch from the road - or take a tour that offers viewing blinds.

Private blinds for photographers run $175 per night, but group tours are just $25 per person.

We did neither, and forgot to bring binoculars.

As I sat at the edge of a cornfield that looked much like any Iowa field, I wondered what possessed me and other crane watchers from Texas, New York and elsewhere to hunker down and watch these shy, elusive gray masses of feathers.

Perhaps that can only be answered by observing the crane migration in person.

Comments: (319) 398-8428; cindy.hadish@sourcemedia.net

If you go

• Interstate 80 is a straight shot all the way from Eastern Iowa to the Platte River Valley in south-central Nebraska.
• The Nebraska Nature & Visitor Center on Alda Road, exit 305, is a must-stop on your visit. Besides information, the center offers miles of hiking trails, a 35-foot observation tower and free admission. Hours during March are 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily.
• Watch the weather forecast and bring warm clothing, especially if it's early in the season. Don't forget a camera and binoculars, too.
• Reserve a viewing blind in advance and find other information at www.nebraskanature.org.
• The Great Platte River Road Archway, on Interstate 80 at Kearney, offers an informative side trip about the history of westward migration. Tickets are $10 for adults. Spring hours are 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. See www.archway.org.