Travel: Brown, Indiana

Indiana's Brown County doesn't deserve its prosaic name, for this scenic region south of Indianapolis is anything but brown. Especially in the summer, its rolling hills and thick forests exhibit every shade of green. For many years this leafy oasis has lured visitors seeking an escape from the hectic pace of city life. In towns like Bean Blossom, Gnaw Bone and Story, the point isn't to get anywhere, but simply just to enjoy where you are.

In the 1870s, the scenic landscape of Brown County began to attract artists, many of whom had trained in the top art schools of Europe and America. In Brown County they pioneered the 'plein-air” (outdoor) style of painting in the United States, portraying the rugged hills in an impressionistic style. Over the next decades the artists came to be known as the Hoosier Group, whose paintings helped spread the reputation of Brown County around the world.

The most prominent of these artists was T.C. Steele, who bought land in the county in 1907. On a remote hillside he built a studio and home that he named the House of Singing Winds. There he spent two decades painting while his wife, Selma, expressed her creativity by planting and tending extensive gardens on the surrounding grounds.

The T.C. Steele State Historic Site preserves this idyllic retreat and is a natural first stop on a visit to Brown County. Guided tours are offered of the House of the Singing Winds and Steele's studio, and afterwards visitors can explore on their own the site's network of hiking trails and Selma's restored gardens.

More than 250 Brown County artists and craftspeople follow in the tradition of T.C. Steele. While many focus on the visual arts, others work in media such as woodworking, pottery, jewelry, sculpture and glass. The nearby town of Nashville, Ind., has dozens of galleries and studios that display their work. Don't miss the Brown County Art Gallery, which features top Indiana artists and gives information on the artistic traditions of the area.

Nashville, Ind., has other pleasures as well. Restaurants, antique stores, wine and beer tasting rooms, and specialty shops line its narrow streets. In the evening, take in a theater performance, film, or comedy act at the Brown County Playhouse, which first opened in 1949.

From Nashville, explore the wooded environs of Brown County State Park. The park, which frequently has mist rising from its deep ravines and valleys, is known as Little Smokies because of its resemblance to the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee. Its nearly 16,000 acres of woods include hiking and horse riding trails, a lodge, aquatic center and restaurant.

Next, head east to the village of Gnaw Bone (population 200). One of the town's newest establishments is Bear Wallow Distillery, maker of such spirits as Hidden Holler Corn Whisky Moonshine, Bear Trap Barrel Strength White Whiskey and Liar's Bench Rye Whiskey. Guests can tour the distillery and then sample Bear Wallow's popular 'moonshine shake-ups” served in mason glass jars.

'During the Whiskey Rebellion of the 1790s, people came to this area to make moonshine up in the hills,” says Susan Spagnuolo, founder and president of the distillery. 'We like to think we're carrying on that tradition, only without having to worry about law enforcement.”

Next head north to the town of Bean Blossom, which is famous for its association with legendary bluegrass musician Bill Monroe, who had a home in the area for many years. The Bill Monroe Bluegrass Hall of Fame & Museum tells the story of his life and career and also includes country music memorabilia such as a dress from Dolly Parton and a Johnny Cash suit (in black, of course). The adjacent Music Park hosts a full schedule of concerts and festivals, including its signature event, the Bill Monroe Bean Blossom Bluegrass Festival, which is held in June each year.

'People from around the world know about Bean Blossom because of our association with Bill Monroe,” says Dan Harden, information director for the museum. 'The world's best blue grass musicians come here to play, learn from each other and have fun together.”

End your tour of Brown County at the Story Inn, whose slogan is 'one inconvenient location since 1851.” Reached by following a winding road deep into the hills, the Story Inn was originally a general store.

It now houses a cozy, down-home lodging establishment and farm-to-table restaurant known for its exceptional food.

The building's creaky floors and vintage decor add to its charm, and if you're feeling brave you can book a stay in the Blue Lady Room, which is said to be haunted by a ghost. The village's other buildings also house guests (including horses and dogs).

'People like the isolation and quiet of this place,” says Rick Hofstetter, who purchased the entire town of Story in 1998. 'We have many people who return here year after year. It's a place where you can hear the birds wake up in the morning.”

On most Saturdays and Sundays throughout the summer and fall, the Story Inn has live music on its outdoor patio and sells meats cooked in a wood-fired smoker converted from a propane tank (a contraption which, according to Hofstetter, resembles an engineering collaboration between Jules Verne and Jed Clampett). This is perhaps the best place in Brown County to unplug, slow down and unwind, looking out across the hills that continue to inspire visitors.

If you go

Where: Brown County is located one hour south of Indianapolis.

Where to stay: The Story Inn has 18 rooms and cottages for rent; prices begin at $139 a night. (812) 988-2273; www.storyinn.com has 18 rooms and cottages for rent; prices begin at $139 a night.

More information: Contact the Brown County Convention & Visitors Bureau at 1-(800) 753-3255 or www.BrownCounty.com.