Travel: The Flint Hills of Kansas has North America’s largest expanse of tallgrass prairie

Tallgrass prairie once covered much of the Great Plains. In Iowa, only remnants of this verdant landscape remain. But in eastern Kansas, a quirk of nature kept large swathes of it intact. When the pioneers arrived they found the Flint Hills too rocky to plow, and so the rolling landscape of grasses and flowers was kept in pasture, with cattle grazing where buffalo once roamed.

'The Flint Hills are the largest expanse of unbroken tallgrass prairie in North America,' says Fred Goss, director of the Flint Hills Discovery Center in Manhattan, Kansas. 'They extend into north-central Oklahoma as well as through eastern Kansas. With just 4 percent of prairie remaining in North America, this is one of the most endangered ecosystems in the world.'

The Flint Hills Discovery Center, which opened in 2012, provides a comprehensive overview of why this landscape is so remarkable. Visits begin with the multimedia film Tallgrass Prairie: Tides of Time. Shown on a curved, panoramic screen, the 30-minute movie features special effects simulating fog, snow, smoke and wind, immersing visitors in the seasonal cycle of the prairie.

After seeing the film, visitors can learn more about the Flint Hills on two floors of exhibits. Displays describe how grazing bison, and then cattle, kept the biodiversity of this region intact. Periodic fires (first set by native peoples and later by ranchers) kept trees at bay and removed dead vegetation, stimulating the prairie plants to grow taller and more abundantly. By the fall, some of these grasses grow to a height of 9 feet.

'Our exhibits and programming are based upon ongoing research being done in the Flint Hills,' Goss says. 'We're only just beginning to understand the complex web of life that sustains this ecosystem.'

After touring the center, it's time to explore the hills themselves. South of Council Grove, the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve protects nearly 11,000 acres. The site includes a bison herd, buildings from a 1880s ranch operation, and 40 miles of hiking and nature trails.

Next head across country on your own. A network of paved and unpaved roads crisscross the Flint Hills, including Highway 177, parts of which are designated as the Flint Hills National Scenic Byway. With little traffic, it's easy to stop frequently to admire the expanse of waving grasses and the huge sky. The rapidly changing weather brings many different moods to these grasslands, which are particularly beautiful at sunrise and sunset.

Continue south to Chase County, which gained international attention after William Least Heat Moon made it the centerpiece of his book 'PrairyErth.' Cottonwood Falls is the county seat and largest town in the county, though with 874 residents you won't have to search long for a parking space downtown. Stop by Prairie PastTimes to browse its art and craft displays. On Friday evenings throughout the year, the store hosts live music concerts, which are held outside on the street during the summer months.

'We have 2,900 people in Chase County and 400,000 head of cattle,' says Jennifer Laird, tourism director for Chase County Chamber of Commerce. 'We don't have a single stoplight in the entire county, though you may have to stop for cows.'

Near the village of Matfield Green, Pioneer Bluffs is a historic farmstead with displays on ranch traditions as well as an art gallery featuring contemporary works relating to the prairie. Pioneer Bluffs sponsors an array of educational and public events, including a fall festival that this year was held Oct. 3. The event included an arts and crafts fair, activities for families, live music, locally grown food, and a car show.

Perhaps the best way to experience the rhythms and beauty of the Flint Hills is to book a stay at the 7,000-acre Flying W Ranch. In addition to raising cattle, owners Josh and Gwen Hoy offer horseback and wagon rides, cattle drives, wildflower walks, fishing, and hiking. Accommodations are in a rustic lodge, cabin or bunkhouse.

'We're both fifth-generation ranchers in the Flint Hills,' says Gwen Hoy. 'We have about 1,800 yearling cattle, but we also love hosting guests so they can learn more about this corner of the world. We try to tailor every visit to what people want to do. We do a lot of family reunions, but we're happy to host individuals as well as groups.'

In the spring, Flying W visitors can participate in the annual burning of the Flint Hills, a spectacular event that sends flames roaring across the ranch. In addition to incredible photo opportunities, the event includes live music, presentations on the ecological importance of the fires and a steak dinner. Next spring's Flames in the Flint Hills is scheduled for April 2.

At any time of year, one of the favorite experiences of many guests is to take a wagon ride to a spot that offers a panoramic view of the sun setting over the waving grasses of the Flint Hills.

'Kansas sunsets have been rated among the best in the world,' Josh Hoy says. 'I see them nearly everyday, and I never get tired of their beauty.'

Music in Flint Hills

Each June, the Symphony in the Flint Hills attracts 7,000 attendees from around the world. The non-profit concerts are held at a different site in the Flint Hills each year. Musicians from the Kansas City Symphony play under a portable structure that protects them from the sun and wind, while the audience sits on folding chairs, hay bales and lawn chairs. The next Symphony in the Flint Hills will be June 11, 2016

If you go

Where to stay:

• The Flying W Ranch has a variety of activities for both day visitors and overnight guests.

• Clover Cliff Ranch has bed-and-breakfast accommodations in an Empire-style home built in the 1880s.

• In Cottonwood Falls, the Grand Central Hotel offers lodging and dining with a western flair.

For more information:

• Contact the Chase County Chamber of Commerce at (620) 273-8469

• Contact the Flint Hills Discovery Center at (785) 587-2726