Loess Hills: An American treasure

Seen from a distance, Iowa's Loess Hills may appear little different from other rolling countryside in the state. But spend an hour, a day, or a week exploring them, and the region's unique character begins to unfold. These hills are a rare geological formation found only here and in northern China. Rich in natural beauty and ecological diversity, the Loess Hills are especially lovely in autumn, when brilliant colors light their woodlands and their prairies glow with gold and russet hues.

The Loess (pronounced “less”) Hills rise like a miniature mountain range on the western border of Iowa, stretching for 200 miles from Sioux City to the southern border of the state. The hills began forming at the end of the last ice age, when the wind picked up soils that had been finely ground by the glaciers and blew it into dunes alongside the ancient waterway that became today's Missouri River. Over thousands of years, the highly erodible soil was shaped by wind and rain into steep ridges, canyons and valleys, each with their own microclimates that nurture a wide array of plants and animals. More than 300 species of native plants, 243 species of birds and some of the state's largest remnants of virgin prairie can be found here.

The Loess Hills National Scenic Byway makes it easy to explore the region. The route winds through the most scenic portions of hills, with numerous side loops that lead into more remote areas. While the majority of the Loess Hills are privately owned, public parks and state forest land also are plentiful.

To truly appreciate this region, put on a pair of hiking boots. Begin your tour at the Hitchcock Nature Center, 15 miles north of Council Bluffs. Its nature center gives a thorough introduction to how the hills were formed and to the distinctive flora and fauna of the area, from yucca and prairie rattlesnakes to scarlet tanager songbirds. Then set out on its 10-mile trail system, a web of paths that will take you up, down and through the hills. Even a short walk gives a sense for the beauty and diversity of the landscape. Some slopes feel almost like Wyoming, with mixed-grass prairie and semiarid plants, while others are lush with vegetation.

“The Loess Hills have a global stature and significance,” says Chad Graeve, natural resource specialist at Hitchcock Nature Center. “This type of land formation is found only in Iowa and in a single area in China. I think a lot of Iowans are unaware of what a treasure we have here in western Iowa.”

To the north, Preparation Canyon State Park near Pisgah offers more secluded hiking. Its 344 acres once included the town of Preparation, founded by Mormons who broke off from a Mormon wagon train headed to Utah in 1853. Today it has a wild and untouched air, with trails that wind along high ridge tops and then plunge into deep canyons.

At the southern end of the Loess Hills, explore the gorges and high ridges of Waubonsie State Park near Sidney. In addition to 7 miles of hiking trails, the park (named after a Pottawattamie chief) includes cabins, a campground, horseback riding, boating and fishing.

The Loess Hills offer many pleasures in addition to hiking. A number of agricultural enterprises make for fun stops, including Small's Fruit Farm near Mondamin, which grows apples, strawberries, raspberries and other produce. The Honey Creek Creamery makes delicious artisan goat cheeses, while the Loess Hills Vineyard and Winery offers tastings and special events.

One of the more unusual businesses in the region is the Loess Hills Lavender Farm, an aromatic oasis located on a hillside north of Missouri Valley. Walk through its 2 acres of blooming plants and then visit its gift shop to sample lavender-infused lotions, soaps and other products.

“I fell in love with lavender on a visit to the state of Washington a number of years ago,” says Mary Hamer, co-owner of the farm with her husband, Tim. “It grows very well here because the soil of the Loess Hills quickly percolates water away from the roots, which helps the plants to flourish.”

To learn more about the history of the region, visit the Harrison County Historical Museum.

Finally, near Sioux City follow in some famous footsteps. The Lewis and Clark expedition passed through here in 1804, leaving behind the only casualty of the trip, a young man named Sergeant Floyd who likely died of appendicitis. His grave is marked by a 100-foot obelisk. This isn't a bad spot to spend eternity, here in this scenic spot between the Loess Hills and the Missouri River.