Seeking Independence

We’ve viewed exhibits in dozens of museums across the United States but a simple one in a Missouri museum hit home. Deputy Museum Director Kelly Anders led us to a space with two viewing ports and asked us to look in the left one first. It was a blurry smear of colors. The other one showed a clear view of an outdoor scene.

“On the left is what Harry Truman saw with his glasses off. The right view is what he saw with his glasses on. Both of us grew up with myopia, so the exhibit connected us with the famous Missourian and 33rd president.

The vision exhibit demonstrated how this remarkable man overcame barriers on his route to the presidency. Poor vision reveals his determination. Wanting to join the Missouri National Guard, he knew he couldn’t pass the eye test, so he memorized the eye chart, was accepted into the Guard, and served with combat distinction in World War I. Years later, as senator and president, he made momentous decisions that helped bring victory during the Second World War.

We were at the Harry S. Truman Library and Museum in Independence, Missouri. The recently renovated museum interprets Truman’s humble birth, early life and careers as a farmer, store co-owner, county elected official, U.S. senator, vice president, president and intriguing life as former president. His early life in rural Missouri framed how he approached decisions. While people ridiculed his lack of higher education, Midwest farmer background, and “failure” as a business man, he knew first hand the economic devastation facing millions in the Depression. These experiences “ … made him sensitive to the daily struggles of ordinary Americans, who shared many of the same life stories.”

As president he made momentous and difficult decisions that framed the future but perhaps the most controversial was one that also linked our lives with his. In 1945 Rich’s father, Henry Patterson, was a 23-year-old sailor preparing for the invasion of Japan. Massive casualties were expected. Now 99 years old, Patterson stated, “When we learned that giant bombs leveled two cities, we knew the war would be over soon and we could go home. It was a huge relief. Harry Truman was a great man and is my favorite president,” he recently said.

Although his decision to drop atomic bombs remains controversial, it certainly shortened the war and allowed Henry Patterson and thousands of other American servicemen and women to return home safely. Had it been otherwise, Rich may never have been born.

When chosen to run with Franklin Roosevelt as the vice-presidential candidate, he was an obscure Missouri senator. Although in failing health, Roosevelt kept Truman in the dark on major issues, including the Manhattan Project that created the atomic bomb. Roosevelt’s death thrust the decision on whether to use it to the new president’s shoulders.

That was only one of many difficult decisions to land on Truman’s desk. He navigated the United States from the closing days of the Second World War into the Cold War era, while also dealing with contentious labor and civil rights issues and the Korean War. When Congress failed to pass a civil rights law, Truman used Executive Order 9981 to desegregate the military. It was a remarkable and courageous decision for a man of the south and son of a segregationist mother. Truman also supported the Marshall plan that helped revive devastated Europe that saved the lives of many people.

The Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum (trumanlibrary.gov) aptly and interactively interprets these and other Truman stories. His “Dear Bess” letters give insight into their close relationship. Several WWI displays accurately depict life in the trenches. The museum is located in Independence, Missouri, about 300 miles southwest of Cedar Rapids. We had toured it years ago but learned it had been updated during the COVID-19 closure. The updates are fantastic.

Our recent trip took us to the museum and several other interesting places in Independence and nearby Liberty, Missouri. Both towns are close to Kansas City, so a visit can include stops at the many attractions of the big city.

One of our travel goals is to sleuth out unusual, sometimes funky, places to see, eat, and stay. Down a dusty road The Fish Market did brisk business as we noshed Crawfish Meat Pies and Alligator Street Tacos. We booked an overnight at the Belvoir Winery and Inn, Liberty, Mo. It is intriguing. Built in 1900 by the Grand Lodge of Missouri I.O.O.F. to house, educate and care for orphans, widows, and elderly members in good standing. The original structures had modern amenities like heating and indoor plumbing, and a school and hospital. Residents tended their 240-acre farm.

By the mid-1900s the home’s relevance had declined. It fell into disrepair and was sold for a few bucks to an enterprising family who has converted one building into the winery and inn. Today, the rambling collection of buildings of Jacobethan Architecture remains imposing, fancy, and fascinating but needing much tender loving care.

The Inn’s style, popular in the early 1900s, creates an ambience of elegance with the wide staircase descending to the main entrance, vintage furniture, and a cozy bar with gleaming chandeliers. Modernized rooms are sleek with amenities expected at a busy destination wedding site. We’d heard rumors of ghosts, but none interrupted our sleep. From the Belvoir Inn it was only a 20-minute drive to the Truman Museum. Our overnight stay was truly unusual.

In 1833 members of the Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints movement were driven out of Missouri due to religious prejudice and moved westward to Utah. While walking to a downtown Independence coffee shop we noticed a tall building so unusual we had to check it out. It was an elegant, gleaming, spiral shaped structure that is the Temple of the Community of Christ, formerly called the Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Designed by architect Gyo Obata, the structure brings to mind the spiral of a nautilus shell. It is intriguing and open to the public.

Independence is steeped in the history of western expansion. It was a teeming departure city for people about to venture on the Oregon, California and Santa Fe Trails. Thousands of people traveled to Independence to buy mules, wagons and supplies for their long trip. For a time, breeding mules to sell to emigrants was a thriving business. The National Frontier Trails Museum (NFTMinfo@indepomo.org) helps visitors understand the importance of these early thoroughfares in the settling of the West. Open times vary so contact the Museum before visiting.

Missouri’s Madonna of the Trail statue is located at the Jackson County Courthouse in Independence. In the 1920s the Daughters of the American Revolution commissioned the creation of 12 identical statues that were placed in 12 states from Maryland to California. They symbolize the courage and faith of women who braved the arduous trek west. Whenever our travels take us near a Madonna statue, we make a point to visit it.

Presidential Libraries and Museums

The Truman Museum is one of 15 presidential museums spanning administrations from Herbert Hoover to Barack Obama. They are part of the National Archives and Records Administration. Established Midwestern ones include Hoover, Truman, Eisenhower, Clinton, Ford, and Obama. Information is available at archives.gov/presidential-libraries.

In addition, many historical societies and states have museums and sites honoring presidents. Perhaps best known is the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum in Springfield, operated by the State of Illinois.

Independence is Missouri’s fifth largest city by population. It features a wide array of lodging and eating opportunities. (visitindependence.com) So do nearby Liberty and Kansas City.

We’ve been to many presidential libraries and aim to visit more. All are fascinating.