Souffles are delicious whether they fall in the oven or out

Early one morning in January, I saw a fox squirrel scurrying in the arborvitae out back. It appeared to be building a nest.

I've been concerned for the squirrels in our yard. Their home was the river birch that once shaded our backyard, but was felled after the August storm. At least two squirrel nests were there and several birds. From our deck, I used to gaze upward to see warblers in early spring.

I was relieved to see shelter activity taking place because it was cold. The squirrel looked fat and prosperous from visiting our bird feeder. He moved along the stand of arborvitae, chewing branches, occasionally dropping them, as he maneuvered the tangle of evergreen. In about an hour, the nest was complete.

Animals just keep going. I've often wondered after seeing a bird nest destroyed by a storm or by a predator, do they feel sadness? Do they mourn? They seem to just keep going, rebuilding the nest, moving ahead.

A few weeks later, I saw another nest go up. It was in a raggedy ash (I think), not long for this world, but the fox squirrel found a perfect little nook. The problem was a lack of building materials. Snow was piling up. Few leaves remained on trees, and the ones hanging on were at the far tips of branches. He gathered twigs of all sizes and set them in place. Sometimes his mouth was full of a prized leaf or two.

Remember that day we were close to blizzard conditions? (I know, so many days like that.) As the snow flew, I watched the ash tree nest and realized there were two squirrels. For a short time, the pair perched side by side on a broken limb. I saw one grooming the other and it was really the sweetest thing. Eventually Mrs. Squirrel (?) disappeared into the nest and Mr. Squirrel stayed close by, tail over his head, as the storm carried on.

Watching nature has been one of my distractions in this long winter. Having more time at home during the day, I see things I might otherwise have missed. The juvenile red-tailed hawk, feathers all puffed out against the cold. And an unusual sight: A pileated woodpecker, searching the trunk of a storm-ravaged oak. In this time of deep winter, all creatures are looking for shelter and sustenance.

And for human sustenance, we want something warm and comforting right now.

When was the last time you made a souffle?

I haven't made one in years. The alchemy of baking stiffly beaten egg whites is fun. The souffle rises higher and higher and higher and ... then falls soon after leaving the oven. They are not meant for long or elaborate photo shoots.

You may have heard souffles are finicky or high maintenance. I think I was told that years ago in home ec class, but it's not the case. There's really no way to fail. A souffle will fall, no matter what. So whether it falls inside the oven or after coming out, it will still taste deliciously eggy and light.

Souffles can be savory or sweet. Cheese souffles are perhaps the most famous and are perfect as a side dish or a main course. Julia Child's recipe in 'Mastering the Art of French Cooking” contains a standard ratio of ingredients and you can't go wrong.

With the cheese souffle recipe, I'm including a technique to revive one that has fallen. If you bake several individual souffles, some can be kept as leftovers the next day. Cookbook author Deborah Madison pours on heavy cream and adds a tablespoon of shredded cheese, then bakes it again. It's fun with chemistry and the souffle rises once more.

For dessert, I consulted a vintage cookbook, Woman's Home Companion, published during World War II. There I found a simple vanilla souffle that is tasty warm or cold.

Distract yourself by making a souffle this week. A few more weeks of hunkering down and things will be better. Squirrels are nesting and soon will raise their young. Spring is coming.

Cheddar or Swiss Cheese Souffle

Serves: 4

A 1 1/2- or 2-quart souffle dish is ideal, but you can also use a casserole dish. If you have individual ramekins, use those instead, but adjust baking time, you may need less time. Depending on the size, you may have leftover batter which can be baked in smaller dishes.

Butter for inside the baking dish

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

1 cup milk, brought to boil

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

Pinch of cayenne pepper

Pinch of nutmeg

4 eggs, separated

5 egg whites

Pinch of salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

4 ounces coarsely grated Swiss or cheddar cheese

Butter inside of casserole and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place rack in the center of the oven.

Melt the butter in a large saucepan. Stir in the flour and cook over medium heat until butter and flour foam together for 2 minutes without browning. Remove from heat; when mixture has stopped bubbling, pour in all the boiling milk at once. Beat vigorously with a wire whip until blended. Beat in the seasonings. Return over medium-high heat and boil, stirring with the wire whisk, for one minute. Sauce will be very thick.

Remove from heat. Beat in egg yolks one by one until well combined. Set aside.

Beat the egg whites until foamy. Add salt and cream of tartar. Continue beating until stiff. Stir in a big spoonful into the sauce. Stir in all but a tablespoon of the cheese. Delicately fold in the reset of the egg whites, taking care not to over fold.

Put mixture into the baking dish. Tap the pan lightly on the counter. Smooth the surface with an offset spatula or the flat of a nice. Sprinkle the remaining cheese on top.

Place in oven and immediately turn the heat down to 375. Bake for 25 to 25 minutes until the top has puffed over the rim and is nicely browned. Serve at once.

Source: Adapted from 'Mastering the Art of French Cooking”

Goat Cheese Souffle

A 1 1/2- or 2-quart souffle dish is ideal, but you can also use a casserole dish. If you have individual ramekins, use those instead, but adjust baking time, you may need less time. Depending on the size, you may have leftover batter which can be baked in smaller dishes.

Deborah Madison brings more flavor to the souffle by steeping the milk with onion and herbs.

1 1/2 cups milk

Aromatics: 2 onion slices, 1 thyme sprig, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

3 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

4 eggs, separated, plus 2 extra egg whites

5 ounces goat cheese (a mild chevre or a strong Boucheron), crumbled

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter baking dish.

Slowly heat the milk with the aromatics and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a saucepan. Turn off the heat when it's near a boil and set aside to steep.

Melt the butter in a 2 quart saucepan, then stir in the flour. Cook over low heat for one minute, then pour the heated milk into the pan through a strainer and whisk quickly. It will thicken immediately. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes, then remove from heat and stir a little of the hot base into the egg yolks. Next, whisk them back into the sauce and stir in the goat cheese. Taste for salt and season with pepper.

Whip the egg whites until they're nearly stiff, then fold them into the base and transfer the batter to the prepared dish. Bake in the center of the oven until puffed and golden, but just a little wobbly when you shake the dish, about 25 minutes. Serve immediately, including the crust from the sides and the 'sauce” from the center.

Source: Adapted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

Twice-Baked Souffle

Use this method to make individual souffles ahead of time and reheat in the oven just before serving.

Butter and breadcrumbs for the ramekins

Goat Cheese Souffle

Boiling water

1/3 up heavy cream or half and half

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Butter individual ramekins and coat lightly with breadcrumbs. Fill the ramekins with souffle batter. Set them in a baking pan, pour in the boiling water to come at least halfway up the sides. Bake until they are puffy and golden, about 25 minutes. Remove and let them stand in the water for 10 minutes, then remove.

Slide a flexible spatula around each ramekin to loosen the souffle, then turn it out. Place them in a larger shallow baking dish. Cover and refrigerate until you need them, but let souffles come to room temperature while you heat the oven.

Spoon heavy cream over each souffle, allowing it to run down the sides. Cover the top with grated cheese. Bake until the souffles have swollen and browned on top, about 20 minutes.

Source: Adapted from Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison's Kitchen

Vanilla Souffle

A 1 1/2- or 2-quart souffle dish is ideal, but you can also use a casserole dish. If you have individual ramekins, use those instead, but adjust baking time, you may need less time. Depending on the size, you may have leftover batter which can be baked in smaller

1/3 cup flour

1/2 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 cup milk

4 eggs, separated

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Combine flour, sugar and salt in a saucepan. Stir in milk a little at a time.

Cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until mixture is smooth and thick.

Beat egg yolks until thick and yellow; fold in the milk mixture. Cool.

Beat egg whites until foamy; sprinkle the cream of tartar over them and continue beating until stiff but not dry. Fold into the first mixture. Add vanilla.

Pour into an ungreased 1 1/2 quart casserole dish. Place in the lower rack of oven. Bake at 325 degrees for 50 to 60 minutes, or at 425 about 25 minutes or until well browned. The long slow baking makes a souffle of even moistness throughout; quick baking gives a thicker crust and a soft moist interior.

Serve immediately from the baking dish, or serve cold after refrigerating for several hours. Sauces, fruit or whipped cream may be served with the souffle.

Source: Adapted from 'Woman's Home Companion Cook Book”